Difference between revisions of "User:Li Songlin"
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November 1 A person who likes to make things by hand. | November 1 A person who likes to make things by hand. | ||
| − | November 2 What are the benefits for students to learn to make things by hand | + | November 2 What are the benefits for students to learn to make things by hand. |
November 3 Traditional handicrafts in my hometown. | November 3 Traditional handicrafts in my hometown. | ||
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November 6 When did I start using the internet. | November 6 When did I start using the internet. | ||
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November 7 Share with others. | November 7 Share with others. | ||
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November 8 What kind of things are not suitable for sharing. | November 8 What kind of things are not suitable for sharing. | ||
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November 9 What languages would I like to learn in the future? | November 9 What languages would I like to learn in the future? | ||
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November 10 What language do I learn in school. | November 10 What language do I learn in school. | ||
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November 11 Chocolate. | November 11 Chocolate. | ||
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November 12 Things that make me happy. | November 12 Things that make me happy. | ||
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November 13 Staying up. | November 13 Staying up. | ||
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November 14 Li Ziqi. | November 14 Li Ziqi. | ||
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November 15 My favorite number. | November 15 My favorite number. | ||
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November 16 What do I usually do on weekends. | November 16 What do I usually do on weekends. | ||
| − | November 17 What | + | |
| + | November 17 Child memory. | ||
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| + | November 18 Birthday. | ||
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| + | November 19 The city I live in. | ||
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| + | November 20 Hometown. | ||
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| + | November 21 An online vedio in which I learned something new. | ||
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| + | November 22 Plants. | ||
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| + | November 23 What kindds of videos are most popular in my country. | ||
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| + | November 24 A cultural place. | ||
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| + | November 25 An old friend I had lost touch with and got in contact with again. | ||
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| + | November 26 One expensive item I have ever bought. | ||
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| + | November 27 Tragic experience about my ex crush. | ||
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| + | November 28 What knid of videos are most popular in your country. | ||
| + | |||
| + | November 29 Why are so many people obssed with short videos. | ||
| + | |||
| + | November 30 Why do old friends lose touch with each other. | ||
| + | |||
| + | December 1 A crowded place. | ||
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| + | December 2 An ideal place where I'd like to stay. | ||
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| + | December 3 A movie that I really want to watch. | ||
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| + | December 4 Something made me feel confident. | ||
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| + | December 5 Reading. | ||
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| + | December 6 What reading topics are popular in China. | ||
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| + | Decmeber 7 The public garden near my school. | ||
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| + | December 8 Why do people like to visit tourist attractions. | ||
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| + | December 9 A special meal that someone made for me. | ||
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| + | December 10 A place that is good for people to live in. | ||
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| + | December 11 My favorite place in my house where I can relax. | ||
| + | |||
| + | December 12 My favorite place to study. | ||
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| + | December 13 What do I learn from a team. | ||
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| + | December 14 Making friends. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Decmeber 15 A crowded place. | ||
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| + | December 16 Challenges I met recently. | ||
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| + | December 17 Camping with my friend. | ||
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| + | December 18 Hold a birthday party for my friend. | ||
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| + | December 19 My travelling plan to Yunnan. | ||
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| + | 扎染—以白族扎染为例 | ||
| + | 摘要:扎染是一项中国民间传统的染色工艺,白族扎染便是其中一种。白族扎染具有近千年的历史,花色图案丰富,制作工艺包括扎花、浸染、拆线、漂洗脱水等四个步骤。 | ||
| + | |||
| + | 白族扎染概述: | ||
| + | 白族扎染技艺,云南省大理市地方传统纺织品染色技艺,国家级非物质文化遗产之一。扎染古称“绞缬”,是中国一种古老的纺织品染色技艺。扎染一般以棉白布或棉麻混纺白布为原料,染料主要是植物蓝靛(云南民间俗称板兰根)。2006年5月20日,白族扎染技艺经国务院批准列入第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。白族扎染的图案主要源于人们日常生活场景,以及神话故事、图腾崇拜等。也是白族扎染始终充满生机与活力的关键。 | ||
| + | |||
| + | 历史渊源: | ||
| + | 在云南大理,白族扎染技艺久负盛名,历史悠久,已传承了近千年,早在一千多年前的唐代,洱海地区已经有了比较成熟的扎染工艺。根据史料记载,盛唐时期,扎染因工艺特殊,素雅而绚烂,扎染制品更是成为了南诏国向大唐宫廷进献的贡品。当时的染布的技艺密不外传,除了喜洲镇及巍山邻近之地外,均不产扎染,全靠往来滇藏的马帮运送。 | ||
| + | 据史书记载,东汉时期大理地区就有染织之法。唐贞元十六年,南诏舞队到长安献艺,所着舞衣“裙襦鸟兽草木,文以八彩杂革”即为扎染而成。 | ||
| + | 明清时期,洱海白族地区的染织技艺已到达很高水平,出现了染布行会,明朝洱海卫红布、清代喜洲布和大理布均是名噪一时的畅销产品。 | ||
| + | 近代以来,大理染织业继续发展,周城成为远近闻名的手工织染村。 | ||
| + | |||
| + | 工艺特征: | ||
| + | 1.布料和品种 | ||
| + | 以前,扎染所用的是本村或周围村庄的村民自己织造、生产的土布,现在,虽这种自织的土布已不多用,但无论是扎染厂还是个体私营的家庭,其选用的布都多为纯棉白布,摸上去手感较好,做成服装,穿起来也十分舒服,透气性良好,利于吸汗。现扎染厂及村中所用的扎染布料多从昆纺、滇纺、青海等地购入。目前周城扎染的品种主要有服装布料、桌布、床单、窗帘、电器罩、小手帕、工艺布等。因用途不同,各种布料的尺寸大小、形状、图案也各异。 | ||
| + | 2.花色图案 | ||
| + | 周城扎染的色彩主要是蓝色和白色。蓝白二色是白族扎染的主色调或者说是基调,一般的图案均为蓝底白花。此外,还有少量其它色彩,如青底白花、黄底白花、绿底白花、红底白花等。图案方面,却丰富得多。可分为常见图案和新创图案两类。常见的图案多为花草植物、鸟兽虫鱼、自然景观以及各种图形。植物纹样如叶子花、菊花、郁金香等;动物类纹样有蝴蝶、蜜蜂、鱼、毛虫、蚯蚓、喜鹊、白鹤、凤凰等;自然景观类有蝴蝶泉、三塔、苍山及日月星辰、山水河流等;其它图形类有三角花、六角花、八角花、菱形、圆形、齿形、凸字形、凹字形,还有八卦图和福、禄、寿、喜等字体。 | ||
| + | 3.染料 | ||
| + | 周城扎染传统使用的染料,当地称为“土靛”或“湿靛”,是用村民种植的浸染植物加入各种辅料配制而成的。制作土靛要使用松木板制成的木桶,中间用3~4道篾条或藤条环绕而箍,现在也有的用铁丝、钢筋箍扎。之所以用木桶,主要是因为其木质对染料不会起副作用。一只木桶的使用寿命至少在10年以上。 | ||
| + | |||
| + | 工艺过程: | ||
| + | 1.扎花 | ||
| + | 扎花是用手工缝扎布料的工序,即用折、叠、挤、缝、卷、撮等方法在白布上扎出各种花纹图案。除了一些简单的、已十分熟识的图案之外,扎花之前一般首先要在白布上印好图样,再根据图案进行扎花。扎好的布料缩成一团团、一簇簇的疙瘩布。扎花是扎染中第一道关键的工序,漏扎、错扎、多扎均会影响图案成形。没有扎紧的,浸染后图案就不清晰。 | ||
| + | 2.浸染 | ||
| + | 用土靛染布,需用冷染的方法。染布所需的各种原料,其比例很有讲究,要根据所需布料颜色的深浅来配放原料。第一次配放染料,民间称为“发缸”,掌握配料多少、负责添放原料的人称为“掌缸人”。染时,先在木制的大染缸中放入水,加入一定量的土靛即染料,用染棒将染料调匀,再加入适量的辅料。染料配好后,就可将浸泡过的布拧干放入染缸中浸染。染过一遍后,要滤水、晾晒,然后又再一次浸染,根据布料需要的颜色深浅度,反复浸染数次。 | ||
| + | 3.拆线 | ||
| + | 浸染后的布料,晾干后就可以拆线了。拆线就是将扎花时缝、扎过的地方的线拆掉,使图案花纹显现出来。这道工序虽不算复杂,却必须要细心,否则拆破了布料,一块布就成废料了。 | ||
| + | 4.漂洗、脱水 | ||
| + | 漂洗就是将浸染后拆线的布料放在水中清洗。所用器具多为木缸,也有的用水泥砌成的水池。漂洗的程度也要因所需布料颜色的深浅而定,漂得过多或漂洗不够都会影响花纹图案的成色。 | ||
| + | 漂洗后的扎染布料要晾干,以前都是自然晾晒,现在在扎染厂等规模较大的地方也有用脱水机、烘干机取代人工晾晒的。过去,漂洗、晾干后的扎染布料,要用石碾压平整。现在,这种方法已不多用,扎染厂则用烫平机取代了石碾。 | ||
| + | Title:Tie-dye – Take Bai tie-dye as an example | ||
| + | Abstract:Tie-dyeing is a traditional Chinese folk dyeing process, and Bai tie-dyeing is one of them. Bai tie-dyeing has a history of nearly 1,000 years, rich in colors and patterns, and the production process includes four steps: tie-flowering, dip-dyeing, stitch removal, rinsing and dehydration. | ||
| + | Overview of Bai tie-dyeing: | ||
| + | |||
| + | Bai tie-dyeing skills, local traditional textile dyeing skills in Dali City, Yunnan Province, one of the national intangible cultural heritages. Tie-dyeing, known as "twisted vale" in ancient times, is an ancient textile dyeing technique in China. Tie-dyeing is generally made of cotton white cloth or cotton and linen blended white cloth as raw materials, and the dyes are mainly plant indigo (commonly known as Banlan root in Yunnan folk). On May 20, 2006, the tie-dyeing technique of the Bai nationality was approved by the State Council to be included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. The patterns of Bai tie-dyeing are mainly derived from people's daily life scenes, as well as mythological stories and totem worship. It is also the key to Bai tie-dyeing always full of vitality and vitality. | ||
| + | Historical origin: In Dali, Yunnan, the Bai tie-dyeing technique has a long reputation, a long history, has been inherited for nearly a thousand years, as early as more than a thousand years ago in the Tang Dynasty, the Erhai area has a relatively mature tie-dyeing process. According to historical records, during the Tang Dynasty, tie-dyeing was elegant and gorgeous due to its special craftsmanship, and tie-dyeing products became a tribute from the Nanzhao Kingdom to the Tang Dynasty. At that time, the skill of dyeing cloth was not passed on, except for Xizhou Town and the adjacent places of Weishan, there was no tie-dyeing, and it was all transported by horses and gangs to and from Yunnan and Tibet. According to historical records, there was a method of dyeing and weaving in Dali during the Eastern Han Dynasty. In the sixteenth year of Tang Zhenyuan, the Nanzhao dance team went to Chang'an to perform, and the dance clothes they wore were "skirts, birds, beasts, plants and trees, and the text was made of colorful miscellaneous leather" that is. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the dyeing and weaving skills of the Bai nationality area of Erhai have reached a very high level, and there is a dyeing cloth guild, and the red cloth of Erhaiwei in the Ming Dynasty, the Xizhou cloth and Dali cloth in the Qing Dynasty are all well-known best-selling products. Since modern times, the dyeing and weaving industry in Dali has continued to develop, and Zhoucheng has become a well-known hand-woven and dyeing village. | ||
| + | Process characteristics: | ||
| + | 1.Fabrics and varieties In the past, tie-dyeing was used by the villagers of the village or surrounding villages to weave and produce homespun cloth, now, although this self-woven homespun cloth is not much used, but whether it is a tie-dyeing factory or an individual private family, the cloth selected is mostly pure cotton white cloth, which feels good to the touch, and is made into clothing, which is also very comfortable to wear, with good air permeability, and is conducive to sweat absorption. At present, the tie-dyeing fabrics used in the tie-dyeing factory and the village are mostly purchased from Kunfang, Yunnan Textile, Qinghai and other places. At present, the main varieties of tie-dyeing in Zhoucheng are clothing fabrics, tablecloths, bed sheets, curtains, electrical covers, handkerchiefs, craft cloths, etc. Depending on the use, the size, shape, and pattern of various fabrics are also different. | ||
| + | 2. Flower pattern The colors of Zhoucheng tie-dye are mainly blue and white. Blue and white is the main color or base tone of Bai tie-dye, and the general pattern is white flowers on a blue background. In addition, there are a small number of other colors, such as white flowers on a green background, white flowers on a yellow background, white flowers on a green background, white flowers on a red background, etc. | ||
| + | In terms of patterns, it is much richer. It can be divided into two categories: common patterns and new patterns. The common patterns are mostly flowers and plants, birds, beasts, insects and fish, natural landscapes and various graphics. plant patterns such as leaf flowers, chrysanthemums, tulips, etc.; Animal patterns include butterflies, bees, fish, caterpillars, earthworms, magpies, white cranes, phoenixes, etc.; The natural landscape category includes butterfly springs, three towers, Cangshan Mountain, sun, moon and stars, mountains and rivers, etc.; Other graphics include triangular flowers, hexagonal flowers, octagonal flowers, diamonds, circles, tooths, convex characters, concave characters, as well as gossip diagrams and fonts such as Fu, Lu, Shou and Xi. | ||
| + | 3. Dye The dyes traditionally used in Zhoucheng tie-dyeing, locally known as "soil indigo" or "wet indigo", are prepared by adding various auxiliary materials to the impregnated plants planted by the villagers. To make indigo, a wooden barrel made of pine planks is used, and the middle is surrounded by 3~4 strips or rattan sticks, and some are now tied with iron wire and steel bars. The main reason why wooden barrels are used is that their wood does not have side effects on the dye. A barrel has a lifespan of at least 10 years. | ||
| + | Process: | ||
| + | 1.Tie flower Tie flower is the process of sewing cloth by hand, that is, using folding, folding, squeezing, sewing, rolling, pinching and other methods to tie out various patterns on the white cloth. In addition to some simple and well-known patterns, the pattern is generally printed on the white cloth before tying the flower, and then the pattern is tied according to the pattern. The tied fabric shrunk into clumps and clusters of pimple cloth. Tie flower is the first key process in tie-dyeing, and missing ties, wrong ties, and multiple ties will affect the shape of the pattern. If it is not tightly tied, the pattern will not be clear after dipping. | ||
| + | 2. Dyeing cloth with indigo needs to be cold-dyed. The proportion of various raw materials required for dyeing cloth is very particular, and the raw materials should be prepared according to the depth of the color of the desired cloth. The first time the dye is dispensed, the folk call it "hair cylinder", and the person who masters the number of ingredients and is responsible for adding raw materials is called "the person in charge of the cylinder". When dyeing, first put water in a large wooden dyeing vat, add a certain amount of indigo dye, mix the dye with a dyeing stick, and then add an appropriate amount of accessories. After the dye is ready, the soaked cloth can be wrung out and put into the dye vat for dipping. After dyeing once, it is necessary to filter water, dry, and then dip and dye again, according to the color depth required by the fabric, and repeatedly dip and dye several times. | ||
| + | 3. Remove the stitches The dyed fabric can be removed after drying. Removing the stitches is to remove the threads at the sewn and pierced places when tying the flowers, so that the patterns and patterns are revealed. Although this process is not complicated, it must be careful, otherwise the fabric will be dismantled, and a piece of cloth will become a waste. | ||
| + | 4.Rinsing and dehydration Rinsing is to wash the fabric with the stitches removed after dipping and dyeing in water. Most of the utensils used are wooden cylinders, and some are pools made of cement. The degree of rinsing also depends on the depth of the desired fabric color, too much bleaching or not enough rinsing will affect the color of the pattern. The rinsed tie-dye fabric should be dried, which used to be dried naturally, but now in large-scale places such as tie-dye factories, dehydrators and dryers are also used to replace manual drying. In the past, tie-dyed fabrics that had been rinsed and dried had to be smoothed with stones. Nowadays, this method is no longer used, and tie-dyeing factories have replaced stone grinding with ironing machines. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | Terms: | ||
| + | 扎染tie-dyeing | ||
| + | 国家级非物质文化遗产national intangible cultural heritage | ||
| + | 绞缬twisted vale | ||
| + | 扎花tie-flowering | ||
| + | 浸染dip-dyeing | ||
| + | 拆线stitch removal | ||
| + | 土靛soil indigo | ||
| + | 湿靛wet indigo | ||
| + | Questions: | ||
| + | 1.What is Bai Tie-dyeing? | ||
| + | 2.What are the main raw materials used in Bai Tie-dyeing? | ||
| + | 3.Can you describe the four main steps involved in the Bai Tie-dyeing process? | ||
| + | Answers: | ||
| + | 1.Bai Tie-dyeing is a traditional Chinese textile dyeing technique and a national intangible cultural heritage. | ||
| + | 2.The main raw materials used in Bai Tie-dyeing are cotton white cloth or cotton and linen blended white cloth. The primary dye used is plant indigo, which is commonly known as Banlan root in the Yunnan region. | ||
| + | 3.The four main steps involved in the Bai Tie-dyeing process are tie-flowering (扎花), dip-dyeing (浸染), stitch removal (拆线), and rinsing and dehydration (漂洗脱水). These steps are crucial for creating the distinct patterns and colors characteristic of Bai Tie-dyeing. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Reference: | ||
| + | [1]毕晶晶. 云南白族扎染艺术的传承发展[J]. 上海服饰, 2024, (02): 31-34. | ||
| + | [2]牛萌璐. 云南白族扎染艺术保护与传承的创新路径研究[J]. 大观(论坛), 2022, (03): 99-101. | ||
| + | [3]https://www.ihchina.cn/news_ | ||
| + | [4]https://cul.sina.cn/2017-08-03/detail-ifyitamv4697769.d.html | ||
| + | [5]http://www.minwang.com.cn/mzwhzyk/663688/685959/685962/628992/index.html | ||
| + | |||
| + | I hereby guarantee that I have not used the help of AI to write my final paper in this course. | ||
Latest revision as of 19:17, 30 December 2024
This is Li Songlin's Homepage.
Here is the documentation about the topics of my foreign language learning:
November 1 A person who likes to make things by hand.
November 2 What are the benefits for students to learn to make things by hand.
November 3 Traditional handicrafts in my hometown.
November 4 Traditional cakes in China.
November 5 What would we do without internet.
November 6 When did I start using the internet.
November 7 Share with others.
November 8 What kind of things are not suitable for sharing.
November 9 What languages would I like to learn in the future?
November 10 What language do I learn in school.
November 11 Chocolate.
November 12 Things that make me happy.
November 13 Staying up.
November 14 Li Ziqi.
November 15 My favorite number.
November 16 What do I usually do on weekends.
November 17 Child memory.
November 18 Birthday.
November 19 The city I live in.
November 20 Hometown.
November 21 An online vedio in which I learned something new.
November 22 Plants.
November 23 What kindds of videos are most popular in my country.
November 24 A cultural place.
November 25 An old friend I had lost touch with and got in contact with again.
November 26 One expensive item I have ever bought.
November 27 Tragic experience about my ex crush.
November 28 What knid of videos are most popular in your country.
November 29 Why are so many people obssed with short videos.
November 30 Why do old friends lose touch with each other.
December 1 A crowded place.
December 2 An ideal place where I'd like to stay.
December 3 A movie that I really want to watch.
December 4 Something made me feel confident.
December 5 Reading.
December 6 What reading topics are popular in China.
Decmeber 7 The public garden near my school.
December 8 Why do people like to visit tourist attractions.
December 9 A special meal that someone made for me.
December 10 A place that is good for people to live in.
December 11 My favorite place in my house where I can relax.
December 12 My favorite place to study.
December 13 What do I learn from a team.
December 14 Making friends.
Decmeber 15 A crowded place.
December 16 Challenges I met recently.
December 17 Camping with my friend.
December 18 Hold a birthday party for my friend.
December 19 My travelling plan to Yunnan.
扎染—以白族扎染为例
摘要:扎染是一项中国民间传统的染色工艺,白族扎染便是其中一种。白族扎染具有近千年的历史,花色图案丰富,制作工艺包括扎花、浸染、拆线、漂洗脱水等四个步骤。
白族扎染概述: 白族扎染技艺,云南省大理市地方传统纺织品染色技艺,国家级非物质文化遗产之一。扎染古称“绞缬”,是中国一种古老的纺织品染色技艺。扎染一般以棉白布或棉麻混纺白布为原料,染料主要是植物蓝靛(云南民间俗称板兰根)。2006年5月20日,白族扎染技艺经国务院批准列入第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。白族扎染的图案主要源于人们日常生活场景,以及神话故事、图腾崇拜等。也是白族扎染始终充满生机与活力的关键。
历史渊源: 在云南大理,白族扎染技艺久负盛名,历史悠久,已传承了近千年,早在一千多年前的唐代,洱海地区已经有了比较成熟的扎染工艺。根据史料记载,盛唐时期,扎染因工艺特殊,素雅而绚烂,扎染制品更是成为了南诏国向大唐宫廷进献的贡品。当时的染布的技艺密不外传,除了喜洲镇及巍山邻近之地外,均不产扎染,全靠往来滇藏的马帮运送。 据史书记载,东汉时期大理地区就有染织之法。唐贞元十六年,南诏舞队到长安献艺,所着舞衣“裙襦鸟兽草木,文以八彩杂革”即为扎染而成。 明清时期,洱海白族地区的染织技艺已到达很高水平,出现了染布行会,明朝洱海卫红布、清代喜洲布和大理布均是名噪一时的畅销产品。 近代以来,大理染织业继续发展,周城成为远近闻名的手工织染村。
工艺特征: 1.布料和品种
以前,扎染所用的是本村或周围村庄的村民自己织造、生产的土布,现在,虽这种自织的土布已不多用,但无论是扎染厂还是个体私营的家庭,其选用的布都多为纯棉白布,摸上去手感较好,做成服装,穿起来也十分舒服,透气性良好,利于吸汗。现扎染厂及村中所用的扎染布料多从昆纺、滇纺、青海等地购入。目前周城扎染的品种主要有服装布料、桌布、床单、窗帘、电器罩、小手帕、工艺布等。因用途不同,各种布料的尺寸大小、形状、图案也各异。
2.花色图案 周城扎染的色彩主要是蓝色和白色。蓝白二色是白族扎染的主色调或者说是基调,一般的图案均为蓝底白花。此外,还有少量其它色彩,如青底白花、黄底白花、绿底白花、红底白花等。图案方面,却丰富得多。可分为常见图案和新创图案两类。常见的图案多为花草植物、鸟兽虫鱼、自然景观以及各种图形。植物纹样如叶子花、菊花、郁金香等;动物类纹样有蝴蝶、蜜蜂、鱼、毛虫、蚯蚓、喜鹊、白鹤、凤凰等;自然景观类有蝴蝶泉、三塔、苍山及日月星辰、山水河流等;其它图形类有三角花、六角花、八角花、菱形、圆形、齿形、凸字形、凹字形,还有八卦图和福、禄、寿、喜等字体。 3.染料
周城扎染传统使用的染料,当地称为“土靛”或“湿靛”,是用村民种植的浸染植物加入各种辅料配制而成的。制作土靛要使用松木板制成的木桶,中间用3~4道篾条或藤条环绕而箍,现在也有的用铁丝、钢筋箍扎。之所以用木桶,主要是因为其木质对染料不会起副作用。一只木桶的使用寿命至少在10年以上。
工艺过程: 1.扎花
扎花是用手工缝扎布料的工序,即用折、叠、挤、缝、卷、撮等方法在白布上扎出各种花纹图案。除了一些简单的、已十分熟识的图案之外,扎花之前一般首先要在白布上印好图样,再根据图案进行扎花。扎好的布料缩成一团团、一簇簇的疙瘩布。扎花是扎染中第一道关键的工序,漏扎、错扎、多扎均会影响图案成形。没有扎紧的,浸染后图案就不清晰。
2.浸染
用土靛染布,需用冷染的方法。染布所需的各种原料,其比例很有讲究,要根据所需布料颜色的深浅来配放原料。第一次配放染料,民间称为“发缸”,掌握配料多少、负责添放原料的人称为“掌缸人”。染时,先在木制的大染缸中放入水,加入一定量的土靛即染料,用染棒将染料调匀,再加入适量的辅料。染料配好后,就可将浸泡过的布拧干放入染缸中浸染。染过一遍后,要滤水、晾晒,然后又再一次浸染,根据布料需要的颜色深浅度,反复浸染数次。
3.拆线
浸染后的布料,晾干后就可以拆线了。拆线就是将扎花时缝、扎过的地方的线拆掉,使图案花纹显现出来。这道工序虽不算复杂,却必须要细心,否则拆破了布料,一块布就成废料了。
4.漂洗、脱水
漂洗就是将浸染后拆线的布料放在水中清洗。所用器具多为木缸,也有的用水泥砌成的水池。漂洗的程度也要因所需布料颜色的深浅而定,漂得过多或漂洗不够都会影响花纹图案的成色。
漂洗后的扎染布料要晾干,以前都是自然晾晒,现在在扎染厂等规模较大的地方也有用脱水机、烘干机取代人工晾晒的。过去,漂洗、晾干后的扎染布料,要用石碾压平整。现在,这种方法已不多用,扎染厂则用烫平机取代了石碾。 Title:Tie-dye – Take Bai tie-dye as an example Abstract:Tie-dyeing is a traditional Chinese folk dyeing process, and Bai tie-dyeing is one of them. Bai tie-dyeing has a history of nearly 1,000 years, rich in colors and patterns, and the production process includes four steps: tie-flowering, dip-dyeing, stitch removal, rinsing and dehydration. Overview of Bai tie-dyeing:
Bai tie-dyeing skills, local traditional textile dyeing skills in Dali City, Yunnan Province, one of the national intangible cultural heritages. Tie-dyeing, known as "twisted vale" in ancient times, is an ancient textile dyeing technique in China. Tie-dyeing is generally made of cotton white cloth or cotton and linen blended white cloth as raw materials, and the dyes are mainly plant indigo (commonly known as Banlan root in Yunnan folk). On May 20, 2006, the tie-dyeing technique of the Bai nationality was approved by the State Council to be included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. The patterns of Bai tie-dyeing are mainly derived from people's daily life scenes, as well as mythological stories and totem worship. It is also the key to Bai tie-dyeing always full of vitality and vitality.
Historical origin: In Dali, Yunnan, the Bai tie-dyeing technique has a long reputation, a long history, has been inherited for nearly a thousand years, as early as more than a thousand years ago in the Tang Dynasty, the Erhai area has a relatively mature tie-dyeing process. According to historical records, during the Tang Dynasty, tie-dyeing was elegant and gorgeous due to its special craftsmanship, and tie-dyeing products became a tribute from the Nanzhao Kingdom to the Tang Dynasty. At that time, the skill of dyeing cloth was not passed on, except for Xizhou Town and the adjacent places of Weishan, there was no tie-dyeing, and it was all transported by horses and gangs to and from Yunnan and Tibet. According to historical records, there was a method of dyeing and weaving in Dali during the Eastern Han Dynasty. In the sixteenth year of Tang Zhenyuan, the Nanzhao dance team went to Chang'an to perform, and the dance clothes they wore were "skirts, birds, beasts, plants and trees, and the text was made of colorful miscellaneous leather" that is. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the dyeing and weaving skills of the Bai nationality area of Erhai have reached a very high level, and there is a dyeing cloth guild, and the red cloth of Erhaiwei in the Ming Dynasty, the Xizhou cloth and Dali cloth in the Qing Dynasty are all well-known best-selling products. Since modern times, the dyeing and weaving industry in Dali has continued to develop, and Zhoucheng has become a well-known hand-woven and dyeing village.
Process characteristics: 1.Fabrics and varieties In the past, tie-dyeing was used by the villagers of the village or surrounding villages to weave and produce homespun cloth, now, although this self-woven homespun cloth is not much used, but whether it is a tie-dyeing factory or an individual private family, the cloth selected is mostly pure cotton white cloth, which feels good to the touch, and is made into clothing, which is also very comfortable to wear, with good air permeability, and is conducive to sweat absorption. At present, the tie-dyeing fabrics used in the tie-dyeing factory and the village are mostly purchased from Kunfang, Yunnan Textile, Qinghai and other places. At present, the main varieties of tie-dyeing in Zhoucheng are clothing fabrics, tablecloths, bed sheets, curtains, electrical covers, handkerchiefs, craft cloths, etc. Depending on the use, the size, shape, and pattern of various fabrics are also different. 2. Flower pattern The colors of Zhoucheng tie-dye are mainly blue and white. Blue and white is the main color or base tone of Bai tie-dye, and the general pattern is white flowers on a blue background. In addition, there are a small number of other colors, such as white flowers on a green background, white flowers on a yellow background, white flowers on a green background, white flowers on a red background, etc. In terms of patterns, it is much richer. It can be divided into two categories: common patterns and new patterns. The common patterns are mostly flowers and plants, birds, beasts, insects and fish, natural landscapes and various graphics. plant patterns such as leaf flowers, chrysanthemums, tulips, etc.; Animal patterns include butterflies, bees, fish, caterpillars, earthworms, magpies, white cranes, phoenixes, etc.; The natural landscape category includes butterfly springs, three towers, Cangshan Mountain, sun, moon and stars, mountains and rivers, etc.; Other graphics include triangular flowers, hexagonal flowers, octagonal flowers, diamonds, circles, tooths, convex characters, concave characters, as well as gossip diagrams and fonts such as Fu, Lu, Shou and Xi. 3. Dye The dyes traditionally used in Zhoucheng tie-dyeing, locally known as "soil indigo" or "wet indigo", are prepared by adding various auxiliary materials to the impregnated plants planted by the villagers. To make indigo, a wooden barrel made of pine planks is used, and the middle is surrounded by 3~4 strips or rattan sticks, and some are now tied with iron wire and steel bars. The main reason why wooden barrels are used is that their wood does not have side effects on the dye. A barrel has a lifespan of at least 10 years.
Process:
1.Tie flower Tie flower is the process of sewing cloth by hand, that is, using folding, folding, squeezing, sewing, rolling, pinching and other methods to tie out various patterns on the white cloth. In addition to some simple and well-known patterns, the pattern is generally printed on the white cloth before tying the flower, and then the pattern is tied according to the pattern. The tied fabric shrunk into clumps and clusters of pimple cloth. Tie flower is the first key process in tie-dyeing, and missing ties, wrong ties, and multiple ties will affect the shape of the pattern. If it is not tightly tied, the pattern will not be clear after dipping. 2. Dyeing cloth with indigo needs to be cold-dyed. The proportion of various raw materials required for dyeing cloth is very particular, and the raw materials should be prepared according to the depth of the color of the desired cloth. The first time the dye is dispensed, the folk call it "hair cylinder", and the person who masters the number of ingredients and is responsible for adding raw materials is called "the person in charge of the cylinder". When dyeing, first put water in a large wooden dyeing vat, add a certain amount of indigo dye, mix the dye with a dyeing stick, and then add an appropriate amount of accessories. After the dye is ready, the soaked cloth can be wrung out and put into the dye vat for dipping. After dyeing once, it is necessary to filter water, dry, and then dip and dye again, according to the color depth required by the fabric, and repeatedly dip and dye several times. 3. Remove the stitches The dyed fabric can be removed after drying. Removing the stitches is to remove the threads at the sewn and pierced places when tying the flowers, so that the patterns and patterns are revealed. Although this process is not complicated, it must be careful, otherwise the fabric will be dismantled, and a piece of cloth will become a waste. 4.Rinsing and dehydration Rinsing is to wash the fabric with the stitches removed after dipping and dyeing in water. Most of the utensils used are wooden cylinders, and some are pools made of cement. The degree of rinsing also depends on the depth of the desired fabric color, too much bleaching or not enough rinsing will affect the color of the pattern. The rinsed tie-dye fabric should be dried, which used to be dried naturally, but now in large-scale places such as tie-dye factories, dehydrators and dryers are also used to replace manual drying. In the past, tie-dyed fabrics that had been rinsed and dried had to be smoothed with stones. Nowadays, this method is no longer used, and tie-dyeing factories have replaced stone grinding with ironing machines.
Terms:
扎染tie-dyeing
国家级非物质文化遗产national intangible cultural heritage
绞缬twisted vale
扎花tie-flowering
浸染dip-dyeing
拆线stitch removal
土靛soil indigo
湿靛wet indigo
Questions:
1.What is Bai Tie-dyeing?
2.What are the main raw materials used in Bai Tie-dyeing?
3.Can you describe the four main steps involved in the Bai Tie-dyeing process?
Answers:
1.Bai Tie-dyeing is a traditional Chinese textile dyeing technique and a national intangible cultural heritage.
2.The main raw materials used in Bai Tie-dyeing are cotton white cloth or cotton and linen blended white cloth. The primary dye used is plant indigo, which is commonly known as Banlan root in the Yunnan region.
3.The four main steps involved in the Bai Tie-dyeing process are tie-flowering (扎花), dip-dyeing (浸染), stitch removal (拆线), and rinsing and dehydration (漂洗脱水). These steps are crucial for creating the distinct patterns and colors characteristic of Bai Tie-dyeing.
Reference: [1]毕晶晶. 云南白族扎染艺术的传承发展[J]. 上海服饰, 2024, (02): 31-34. [2]牛萌璐. 云南白族扎染艺术保护与传承的创新路径研究[J]. 大观(论坛), 2022, (03): 99-101. [3]https://www.ihchina.cn/news_ [4]https://cul.sina.cn/2017-08-03/detail-ifyitamv4697769.d.html [5]http://www.minwang.com.cn/mzwhzyk/663688/685959/685962/628992/index.html
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