User:Zhang Minjie

My name is Zhang Minjie, which is 张敏杰 in Chinese, a first-year English Translation postgraduate at Hunan Normal University. I graduated from Jiangsu University of Science and Technology, where I took courses like Advanced English and English Writing. In my spare time, I love watching dramas and reading—these hobbies always boost my enthusiasm for translation.

期末论文

栖凤渡鱼粉

介绍

历史溯源

栖凤渡鱼粉的由来与三国时期庞统的传说沾边，真正成型是在清代中期的栖凤渡地区。西河流经这里，水流平缓，鲢鱼产量高，正好成了鱼粉的核心食材。到晚清的时候，湘南一带种辣椒的越来越多，茶油加工作坊也跟着冒了出来。当地渔民就把这三样东西和米粉凑在一块儿，做出了这款红汤鱼粉。

民国时期，栖凤渡码头成为重要货运节点，码头工人需要快速、耐饥、驱寒的食物，鱼粉因价格实惠、制作快速得以流行。当时镇上知名的“刘记鱼粉”每天凌晨三点起熬汤，五点准时营业。工人们便端着碗，蹲在码头边嗦粉。

二十世纪八十年代，郴州矿产开发推动鱼粉从栖凤渡镇传入郴州市区。1987年，第一家挂牌“正宗栖凤渡鱼粉”的店铺在郴州国庆北路开业，采用前店后坊模式，明厨制作。二十一世纪初，真空包装技术实现鱼粉对外销售，但风味略有损失。

食材选择

栖枫渡鱼粉传统制作工艺对原材料挑选和处理标准极高。选鱼这一步尤其讲究，一般只用西河流域自然生长的野生鲢鱼，重量得控制在一斤半到两斤之间。这种鱼生长在水流湍急的水域，肉质紧实有嚼劲，清晨捕上来之后，必须在两小时内完成加工。现在多数店铺用的是养殖鲢鱼，看重品质的商家则会专门制定用水库鱼。加工时要把鱼头和鱼身分开，鱼头用来熬汤底，鱼身切成片备用。

米粉取当地晚季采收稻米，经8小时浸泡后研磨成浆。依循传统工艺，将米浆均匀摊放在竹制蒸笼托盘上以柴火蒸3分钟制成厚度约1.5毫米的粉皮。粉皮稍作降温后人工折叠，用专用刀具切成1厘米宽条状。这种鲜米粉只能保存一天，口感兼具滑嫩与嚼劲。

选料锁定本地五爪辣椒，需待秋季完全熟透变红后再行摘取。晾晒环节将辣椒平铺在竹席上，每日翻动晾晒，半月便可脱水干透。使用前剔除七成上下的辣椒籽，再用石臼捣碾成3-5毫米的辣椒碎片。

茶油得选当年新榨的，色颜色要金黄澄澈。用之前得先过滤，去掉里面的杂质。传统做法里，茶油要和少量桂皮、八角一起加热到150℃，把香料捞出来后，再用来炼制辣椒，这样能让油香更有层次。辣椒与茶油的重量配比大概是1:5。

制作流程

制作栖枫渡鱼粉要先将鲢鱼头对半劈开，鱼骨切段。锅烧热后倒入适量茶油，待油热放入鱼头鱼骨，用中火煎至两面金黄。随即加入足量冷水，大火煮沸后仔细撇去浮沫，再转小火，保持汤微沸状态慢慢熬。熬制过程需保持足够时长且不盖锅盖，使鱼腥味充分散发。最终得到一锅乳白浓郁的鱼汤。

另取一锅倒入较多茶油加热至指定温度后离火。待油温稍降，迅速倒入备好的辣椒碎片，此时会产生大量气泡，需持续搅拌片刻。再加入一勺豆豉，利用余温烘出香味，静置一天一夜让辣椒香气充分融入油中制成红油备用。

取适量熬好的鱼汤，加入几勺炼好的红油，大火煮沸。调入适量盐、少许酱油及少量白胡椒粉。同时另起一锅烧开水，放入鲜米粉快速烫煮片刻，捞出放入碗中。最后将鱼片放入调味沸腾的汤中稍煮至变白，连汤带鱼片一同倒入碗中。

风味特点

栖枫渡鱼粉的辛辣口感有着清晰递进层次。入口最先感知辣椒馥郁香气而非灼热辣感，合适温度茶油能充分激发辣椒内含芳香成分。三秒时间过后，辛辣滋味慢慢扩散开来且刺激感十分柔和。这种辣味滞后呈现和辣椒碎块大小有关，体积偏大的碎块需要耗费一定时长释放辛辣因子。

鱼粉的鲜味来源于三个核心部分：鱼头鱼骨长时间熬煮产生的游离氨基酸、豆豉提供的发酵鲜味以及少量酱油带来的酱香。三种鲜味呈现具有时序差异，鱼鲜最先感知，发酵鲜味随后呈现，酱香最后呈现。

温度把控是栖枫渡鱼粉风味展现的核心要素。鱼粉端上桌时汤品温度约为85℃，盛装所用的碗具需预热加温。此温度环境下辛辣味更易挥发，可经鼻腔直接被人体感知。食客进食过程汤温逐步降至60℃左右，这一阶段味蕾对鲜香滋味的感知度上升，能更真切体会汤底的浓厚口感。

现状与变化

现在郴州城里开的鱼粉店已超过200家，真正守着老法子做的也就三十家上下。传统做法的关键就是不用干米粉，全用新鲜的，店里红油辣料都是现熬，汤底也得每天换新。这些坚持老工艺的店，一天能卖出两三百到四百碗，一碗的价格大概在十五到二十五块钱。

栖凤渡鱼粉工业化量产产品自 2015 年开始上市，主要靠各类电商平台卖货。靠着高温灭菌和真空封装这两项技术，产品的保质期能延长到180 天。不过这种预制鱼粉的口感和店里现做的比起来差得不少，问题主要出在米粉的口感变了，食材原本的香味也散掉了。2022年的时候，袋装栖凤渡鱼粉的总产量差不多有3000万元。

年轻一代厨师试着给栖凤渡鱼粉做些改良，比如减少用油量，加些青菜、木耳之类的配菜。鱼粉的核心顾客还是四十岁以上的本地人，他们更爱吃传统口味的。有些店还推出了辣度可选的服务，把红油用量分成微辣、中辣、特辣三个标准等级。

在手艺传承这块，当地开了两个鱼粉制作培训班，课程一共七天，教的都是基础的制作手艺。资深的从业者都觉得，火候的把控和调味的配比要达到均衡，至少得练上三个月才能摸到点门道。现在有记载的老师傅大概有十二位，年纪最大的已经七十六岁了，还是每天盯着店里熬汤底。

栖凤渡鱼粉原本只在早上卖，现在不少店已经全天供应了，晚上的销量差不多能占到全天的三成。这种消费场景的转变和当地人作息的改变有关，越来越多人把鱼粉当成中午或者晚上填肚子的方便选择。

Final Exam Paper

Qifengdu Fish Rice Noodles

Introduction

Historical Origins

Qifengdu Fish Rice Noodles have rooted in the legend of Pang Tong from the Three Kingdoms. The dish really took shape in Qifengdu Town in the mid-Qing Dynasty. The Xi River flows slowly here, with lots of silver carp. These fish gave the main ingredient for the dish. By the late Qing Dynasty, chili growing became common in southern Hunan. Tea oil processing workshops also appeared around this time. Local fishermen started mixing these things with rice noodles. They made this special red-broth noodle dish this way.

In the Republic of China time, Qifengdu Wharf turned into an important freight center. Dockworkers needed food that was quick to get, filling enough, and could warm them up. Fish noodles got popular because they were cheap and made fast. The famous “Liu’s Fish Noodles” shop in town started cooking its broth at 3 o’clock in the morning every day. It opened right on time at 5 a.m. Workers would then carry their bowls, squatting by the wharf to slurp their noodles.

In the 1980s, with the development of Chenzhou’s mining industry, the dish spread from Qifengdu Town to the city proper. In 1987, the first shop bearing the sign “Authentic Qifengdu Fish Noodles” opened on Guoqing North Road in Chenzhou, operating on a front-shop, back-kitchen model with an open cooking area. In the early 21st century, vacuum-packing technology allowed the noodles to be sold to other regions, though with some compromise to the original flavor.

Ingredient Selection

The traditional method for preparing this dish has very strict requirements for the fish. People prefer wild silver carp from the West River. These fish live in areas with rapid currents, and usually weigh between 1.5 and 2 pounds. Due to this environment, their meat is firm. They are caught in the early morning. After being caught, they must be processed within two hours. Nowadays, farmed silver carp is used more commonly. However, some quality-conscious stores still insist on using fish from reservoirs. They do this to make the taste of the sold fish closer to that of wild fish. The head and body of the fish are processed separately: The head is used to make the soup, and the body is cut into slices.

The rice noodles are made from the late-season harvested rice from the local area, soaked for eight hours before being ground into slurry. According to the traditional method, this paste is evenly spread evenly on a bamboo steamer tray and steamed over wood fire for about three minutes. Thus, thin noodle sheets about 1.5 millimeters thick are made. After cooling a little, it is folded by hand and cut into strips roughly one centimeter wide with a special knife. These fresh noodles can only be kept for one day, and have a smooth texture and a good chewiness.

The chili must be the local "Five-Claw", and it is only harvested in autumn. At that time, it will turn completely red. To dry them, people spread the chili thinly on bamboo mats, and they need to turn them over every day. This process takes around fifteen days. Before using them, about 70% of the seeds need to be removed. Then the chili is placed in a stone bowl and crushed. They thus become small pieces measuring 3 to 5 millimeters in size.

The tea oil must be the one pressed in the current year, golden and clear. It needs to be filtered to remove dirt or debris. Traditional methods require heating the tea oil with a small amount of cinnamon and star anise before removing these spices a step named extracting the aroma to endow the oil with rich fragrance and prepare it for chili frying. The ratio of tea oil to chili is about 1:5.

Production Process

First, prepare the soup base. Wash the head of the big carp, cut it into half, and cut the fish bones into small pieces. Pour some tea oil into the frying pan and heat the oil. When the oil is hot, add the fish head and fish bones. Fry them over medium heat until both sides turn golden brown. Pour in enough cold water and heat the water to a vigorous boil. Carefully skim off the surface foam and reduce the heat. Let the soup simmer for a long time. Do not cover the frying pan lid, as this will allow the fishy smell to fully dissipate. Finally, you will get a thick, milky white fish soup with a very delicious taste.

Next, make the chili oil. Take another frying pan and pour in more tea oil. Heat the oil until it is hot enough. Then remove the pan from the heat, let the oil cool slightly, and quickly pour in the prepared chili powder. This will cause the oil to bubble a lot, and quickly stir it for a moment. Add a spoonful of fermented black beans and let them release their aroma using the residual heat. Place this chili oil for the entire night and day to allow the aroma of the chili to fully blend into the oil.

Finally, assemble the dish. Take an appropriate amount of the cooked fish soup and add a few spoons of the red chili oil. Bring this mixture to a boil. Add some salt, a little soy sauce, and a little white pepper powder. Put another pot on the stove and boil some water. Quickly blanch the fresh rice noodles in the boiling water. Then pour off the water and put the noodles in a bowl. Put the fish fillets in the seasoned boiling soup and cook for a short while until the fish meat turns white. Stop cooking when the fish meat is white and immediately pour the soup and fish onto the noodles in the bowl.

Flavor Profile

The noodles’ spiciness has clear layers. The first feeling is the chili’s aroma, not its heat, because the tea oil at the right temperature first releases the chili's fragrant substances. The burning heat starts to show up after about three seconds but remains in control, not too sharp to stand. This slow-coming effect comes from bigger chili pieces, which need more time to release spicy part of chili.

The broth's savory taste comes from three things: the free amino acids from slow cooking fish heads and bones foe long, the fermented flavor provided by the black beans, and the savory depth from the small amount of soy sauce. These savory tastes show up at different moments: the fish’s freshness first, followed by the fermented bean flavor, with the soy’s richness lingering last.

Temperature control matters most for the flavor experience. The noodles get served hot, around 85°C, in a pre-warmed bowl. This temperature makes spicy substances float up more easily, and you smell them right through your nose. As one eats and the temperature gradually drops to around 60°C, the taste buds grow more sensitive to the savory taste, allowing for a better appreciation of the broth's smooth and rich taste.

Current Status and Variations

Currently, there are over 200 fish noodle shops in Chenzhou's urban area, but only about 30 steadfastly adhere to traditional methods. The hallmarks of traditional preparation are: using fresh noodles instead of dried; preparing the chili oil on-site; and simmering a fresh batch of fish broth daily. These shops sell between 200 and 400 bowls per day on average, priced from 15 to 25 RMB.

Industrialized items started showing up around 2015. They are sold mostly on online shopping platforms. These products use high-temperature sterilization and vacuum packaging, achieving a shelf life of up to 180 days. However, their texture and smell are quite different from fresh ones, mainly due to changes in the noodle's thickness and a loss of fragrance. In 2022, the output value of packaged Qifengdu Fish Noodles was approximately 30 million RMB.

Younger cooks are trying new things, such as reducing the oil content or adding more side dishes like greens and wood ear fungus. However, the core consumer group—the local over 40—still prefers the traditional version.

Fish noodles used to be just a breakfast food. That role is slowly changing. Some shops now sell them all day, with evening sales making up about 30% of their daily total. This change links to local people’s lifestyle changes, as more people choose fish noodles as a quick and filling option for lunch or dinner.

References

[1]谢苏立,曾双全.栖凤渡鱼粉的价值转译路径探究[J].中国食品,2024,(22):120-122.

[2]张周洋.《小吃湘菜第37部分：栖凤渡鱼粉》地方标准顺利通过专家评审[J].食品工业,2023,44(05):186.

[3]谢苏立.饮食类非物质文化遗产的保护与传承研究——以栖凤渡鱼粉制作技艺为例[J].产业与科技论坛,2020,19(10):242-244.

[4]郴品郴味 “湘”当有味 | 一碗让你“鲜辣入魂”的栖凤渡鱼粉 到底有多上头？_文教卫_郴州站_红网https://cz.rednet.cn/content/646941/56/15121379.html

[5]郴州日报数字报-鱼粉里的人间烟火https://e.czxww.cn/html/202509/10/content_93549.html

[6]散文丨郴州人的早餐，从一碗粉开始…… - 郴州 - 新湖南https://www.hunantoday.cn/news/xhn/202507/30078592.html

[7]小镇大业｜一碗鱼粉“吸粉”，向十亿级产业争渡_郴州_湖南频道_红网https://hn.rednet.cn/content/646848/91/13715604.html

[8]栖凤渡鱼粉_百度百科https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E6%A0%96%E5%87%A4%E6%B8%A1%E9%B1%BC%E7%B2%89/4136403

Terms

Qifengdu Fish Rice Noodles 栖凤渡鱼粉

Southern Hunan 湘南

reservoir fish 水库鱼

late-season rice 晚稻米

rice slurry 米浆

Five-Claw chili 五爪辣椒

fermented black beans 豆豉

bamboo steamer tray 竹制蒸盘

stone mortar 石臼

vacuum packaging 真空包装

Questions

1. When did the dish truly take shape?

2. Name the three core ingredients besides rice noodles.

3. What is a key step for making the fish broth clear and non-fishy?

4. How is the spiciness described?

5. What identifies a traditionally made bowl?

Answers

1. In the mid-Qing Dynasty.

2. Silver carp, Five-Claw chili, and tea oil.

3. Skimming off the foam and simmering without a lid.

4. It has distinct layers, starting with aroma, not immediate heat.

5. Using fresh noodles, on-site chili oil, and daily-simmered broth.