User:Jiao Mengting

Jiao Mengtjing, a second-year-student of MTI in HUNNU.I always keep strong interests and passions about Chinese languages and cultures. This course tauhgt by a foreign professor makes me curious about the teaching method, and maybe new perspectives on Chinese cultures will be offered. Hope my cogition can be upgraded in the end.

Nov.1st,2024

I talked with AI about my preparation for the coming exam and the challenges I am facing.

Nov.2nd,2024

I talked with Lisa about my breakfast.

Nov.3rd,2024

I talked with Mira about my common life.

Nov.4th,2024

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Nov.5th,2024

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Nov.6th,2024

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Nov.14th,2024

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Nov.15th,2024

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Nov.16th,2024

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Nov.17th,2024

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Nov.21st,2024

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Nov.22nd,2024

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Nov.24th,2024

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Nov.25t,2024

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Nov.28th,2024

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Dec.5th,2024

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Dec.6th,2024

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Dec.8th,2024

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Dec.11th,2024

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Dec.17th,2024

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Dec.18th,2024

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Dec.19th,2024

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Final Paper

28. 赣菜

1. 导语

赣菜，又称“江西菜”，是江西传统饮食文化的总称，是江南地区的代表菜系之一。“赣”是江西省的简称，因唐玄宗设江南西道而得省名，又因江西省内最大的河流为赣江而得此简称。传统意义上的赣菜主要由南昌、上饶、九江、赣东和赣南五大流派相互渗透，再兼纳吸收江西其他地域的菜肴特色而形成。随着时间的推移，如今的赣菜主要由豫章菜、浔阳菜、赣南菜、饶帮菜和萍乡菜构成。

如今旅游业盛行，“吃”作为旅游途中不可或缺的六大要素直译，中国各地的传统食物在游客心中越来越成为评价旅途是否值得的一大标准。由于江西地处江南丘陵，赣菜原料多以鱼米山珍为主，加之吸收临省菜系之精华，又结合江西人民的饮食偏好，形成自己独有风格，受到广大民众的喜爱。（Zhang 2006，45）

2. 赣菜形成的历史背景

赣菜历史悠久，据目前可以考证到的史料记载，赣菜最早见于《汉书》和《后汉书》，曾描述南昌等地说“饭稻羹鱼，或火耕而水耨，果隋蠃蛤，不待贾而足”，说明了汉晋时期的江西商贸旅游活动之兴盛。早期，由于江西的农耕文化悠久，口味更倾向于农家菜。宋明时期，随着求仕盛行，江西籍的文人才子辈出，加上江西人杰地灵，从而有许多文人墨客，王侯将相慕名而来，对江西本地的饮食文化产生了深远影响，如文天祥的“文山肉丁”，陶渊明的“菊花火锅”，范仲淹赞赏的“鄱阳鱼米”等，都是赣菜与历史文人的佳话，从而就有了赣菜是“在继承历代‘文人菜’基础上发展而成的乡土味极浓的‘家乡菜’”这一说法。（Zhu 2022，29-35）

改革开放后，随着生产力的提高，生活节奏加快，因赣菜的做法制作环节多，耗时长，制作传统赣菜的技艺逐渐转为现代做法，如小火慢焖变为高压锅快炖，新鲜食材换成半成品菜，经济效益虽有所提高，但也牺牲了其中的部分美味。外加九十年代湘菜、粤菜等外来菜系进入南昌餐厅刺激了本地赣菜在做法和口味上的转型，从原本的咸辣重油转变为突出食物本味的复合风味，既符合当下人们的消费需求，又保留江西本地的口味特色。（Zhu 2022，29-35）

3. 赣菜主要特色

（1）烹饪技艺 通过各类典籍考证，赣菜在汉代就有烧焖炖蒸炒等多种烹饪技法，且赣菜以烧焖炖蒸炒为主，对火候精细的把控也是赣菜鲜香辣醇的重要手段。在原材料选取方面，如上文所述，江西地处江南丘陵，农业丰盛，土地肥沃，食材多为新鲜鱼禽和时令蔬菜，且赣菜追求极致鲜美，因此，食材多为现杀现做，现摘现做。（Zhu 2022，29-35）

（2）风味类型 赣菜以“辣”著称，且“辣”是赣菜的主要味型。与川菜的麻辣、湘菜的辛辣、鄂菜的酸辣不同，赣菜的辣是香辣和鲜辣。主吃“辣”的习惯与江西的地理位置同样具有紧密联系。江西是典型的南方丘陵地形，山多雨水多，春冬天湿冷，夏天潮湿闷热，而辣椒有驱寒祛湿的作用，江西人也就逐渐养成吃“辣”的饮食习惯。

4. 赣菜名菜名点

为唱响赣菜品牌，江西省商务厅组织开展了赣菜名菜名点的评选活动，参与评选的涵盖社会各界，既有公众投票也邀请了专家评审，综合大众投票、专家评审和菜品的代表性、多样性、带动性等因素，最终确定赣菜“十大名菜”和“十大名小吃”名单。根据大众投票，莲花血鸭和啤酒烧鸭位列“十大赣菜”的前两名，南昌米粉和瓦罐煨汤位列赣菜“十大名小吃”的前两名。

（1）莲花血鸭

莲花血鸭属萍乡菜，源自萍乡市莲花县而得名。主要以剁碎的老鸭和处理干净的鸭血作为食材，加入辣椒等辅料后予以烹炒焖制。正宗的莲花血鸭味道辛辣，鸭肉紧实，肥而不腻，新鲜嫩可口。

（2）啤酒烧鸭

啤酒烧鸭属南昌菜，与莲花血鸭对比，啤酒烧鸭以块状鸭肉和啤酒作为主要食材，用啤酒进行焖煮可去味体鲜。制成的啤酒烧鸭紧致有嚼劲，汤汁浓郁诱人。

（3）南昌米粉和瓦罐煨汤

南昌米粉和瓦罐煨汤是南昌特色早餐，本地人将其视为“最佳拍档”。南昌米粉作为早餐通常采用“拌”的方式，与调料搅拌均匀，让每一根米粉裹上酱汁，爽滑可口。瓦罐汤是南昌的特色汤，每种食材都单独放进一个瓦罐内，在早餐店内，通常用锡纸包住每一个小瓦罐，再把盛好食材的小瓦罐放入一个特质的大瓦罐中，再用文火慢炖，这样煨制出的汤鲜美浓郁，也保留较高营养价值。

5. 赣菜发展现状

赣菜的概念及形成体系较晚，其知名度以及餐饮行业在其他省市的占比与八大菜系还存在较大差距。随着我国民生经济的快速发展，赣菜的产业化发展速度、菜品特色创新、餐饮管 理等方面相对于周边省市及主要菜系产业还处于弱势状态。（Wu 2010，151-152）谈到赣菜，大家的第一反应是“辣”，但具有“辣”特色的菜系还有知名度更高的川菜和湘菜，因此，赣菜的“辣”并不是自身的独特性所在。为提升赣菜知名为提升赣菜知名度，唱响赣菜品牌，江西省人民政府办公厅发布江西省打造赣菜品牌三年行动计划（2021-2023年），江西省商务厅也组织开展了赣菜评选活动等，激发大家弘扬赣菜，扩大消费自信。

近年来，国外菜系纷纷涌入中国，国内的大型商场中都会开设外国菜餐厅，东南亚菜是其中热度较高的菜系之一，餐馆形式多元，如小吃快餐、火锅、酒馆、正餐等等，给消费者提供多样化选择，也能让消费者更细致地从小吃到正餐了解某一种菜系的口味。如上述所提到的“赣菜评选活动”，不仅评选了菜品，也评选了小吃。2023年流行的特种兵式旅游的特点就是时间紧，节奏快，特色小吃恰好可以满足这一需求，而“十大名小吃”中的前两名南昌米粉和瓦罐汤也成为游客了解赣菜口味的起点。在当今这个互联网时代，赣菜的传播可以借用互联网如制作一档烹饪赣菜的电视节目，或进行网络直播等方式向赣菜爱好者或美食爱好者传递信息，接触赣菜的潜在消费者，建立赣菜的美食形象。（Guan & Jones 2014, 416-434）

术语与表达

赣菜 Jiangxi Cuisine

文山肉丁 Wenshan Diced Meat

菊花火锅 Chrysanthemum Hotpot

鄱阳鱼米 Poyang Fish and Rice

文人菜 the literati dishes

莲花血鸭 Lianhua Blood Duck

啤酒烧鸭 Beer Duck

南昌米粉 Nanchang Rice Noodles

瓦罐煨汤 Clay Pot Soup

问题

1、江西的简称为什么叫“赣”？

2、赣菜多使用哪些原材料？

3、与赣菜相关的历史文人故事有哪些？

4、赣菜的主要烹饪技法是哪几种？

5、著名的赣菜名菜和名点有哪些？

6、赣菜的传播推广与外国菜系在中国的推广有何相似之处？

参考文献

[1]Guan, J., & Jones, D. L. (2014). The Contribution of Local Cuisine to Destination Attractiveness: An Analysis Involving Chinese Tourists’ Heterogeneous Preferences. Asia Pacific Journal of Tourism Research, 20(4), 416–434. https://doi.org/10.1080/10941665.2014.889727

[2]吴磊."旅游开发场景下赣菜文化的经营与发展."辽宁行政学院学报 12.05(2010):151-152.

[3]张定方."赣菜文化与旅游餐饮经营."四川烹饪高等专科学校学报 04(2006):45-47.

[4]朱虹."赣菜历史文化与产业振兴转向."南昌师范学院学报 43.03(2022):29-35.

网址资料

http://swt.jiangxi.gov.cn/art/2020/12/8/art_35206_2964149.html

http://swt.jiangxi.gov.cn/art/2020/11/25/art_48582_2914469.html

https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1788480854165431688&wfr=spider&for=pc

28. Jiangxi Cuisine

1. Introduction

Jiangxi cuisine (Gan Cai) is a general term for all the culinary culture in Jiangxi, also one of the representative cuisines in southern China. The name Jiangxi is derived from JiangNanXi Canton set up by Emperor Xuanzong of Tang, and the short name “Gan” is associated with the Gan River, the longest river in Jiangxi Province. Traditional Jiangxi Cuisine is primarily a fusion of the culinary styles from Nanchang, Shangrao, Jiujiang, Eastern Jiangxi, and Southern Jiangxi, which have integrated and absorbed characteristics from other regions within Jiangxi to create a distinct identity. Over time, Jiangxi Cuisine has evolved to be mainly constituted by Yuzhang, Xunyang, Ganzhou, Shangrao, and Pingxiang styles.

Today, with the boom in tourism, “eating” as one of the six essential elements of travel has increasingly become a significant criterion for evaluating the value of a journey. Jiangxi, located in hilly area in south Yangtze Basin, is rich in fish, rice, and mountain delicacies, which form the staple ingredients of Jiangxi Cuisine. By absorbing the essence of neighboring provinces’ cuisines and combining the dietary preferences of the local people, Jiangxi Cuisine has developed its unique style and gained popularity among the public. (Zhang 2006, 45)

2. History of Jiangxi Cuisine

Jiangxi Cuisine has a long history, with the earliest records found in historical texts such as the Book of Han and the Book of the Later Han. It said “the people take rice as staple food, and fish as the secondary; they burn the wasteland for farming and hoe the weed for cultivating; the local fruits and seafood are rich enough for self-sufficiency without bargaining”, which described the prosperity of commerce and tourism in places like Nanchang during the Han and Jin dynasties.

In the early periods, due to Jiangxi’s long agricultural culture, the cuisine leaned more towards rural flavors. During the Song and Ming dynasties, as the pursuit of official positions became prevalent, a multitude of literary talents emerged from Jiangxi. The province’s rich cultural heritage attracted many scholars and dignitaries, profoundly influencing the local culinary culture. Dishes such as “Wenshan Diced Meat” associated with Wen Tianxiang, “Chrysanthemum Hotpot” linked to Tao Yuanming, and “Poyang Fish and Rice” praised by Fan Zhongyan are all folk stories related to Jiangxi Cuisine and its historical figures, leading to the notion that Jiangxi Cuisine is a “hometown dishes with a strong rural flavor developed on the basis of inheriting ‘the literati dishes’ through the ages.” (Zhu 2022, 29-35)

After the reform and opening up, with the improvement of productivity and the acceleration of life pace, the traditional techniques for making Jiangxi Cuisine, which were time-consuming and complex, gradually transitioned to modern methods. For instance, slow braising over low heat was replaced by quick stewing in pressure cookers, and fresh ingredients were substituted with semi-finished products. While this increased economic efficiency, it also sacrificed some of the traditional flavors. Additionally, the influx of foreign cuisines such as Hunan and Guangdong cuisines into Nanchang restaurants in the 1990s stimulated a transformation in the local Jiangxi Cuisine’s methods and flavors, shifting from a more salty and spicy heavy oil style to a more complex flavor that highlights the natural taste of the ingredients, meeting contemporary consumer demands while retaining the local Jiangxi flavor characteristics. (Zhu 2022, 29-35)

3. Main Features of Jiangxi Cuisine

(1) Cooking Techniques

According to various historical texts, Jiangxi Cuisine had a variety of cooking techniques such as baking, braising, stewing, steaming, and stir-frying during the Han Dynasty, also serving as the main methods. Precise control of heat is an essential means for achieving the fresh, spicy, and mellow flavors of Jiangxi Cuisine. In terms of ingredient selection, as mentioned earlier, Jiangxi’s location in the south of the Yangtze River, with its abundant agriculture and fertile land, provides fresh fish, poultry, and seasonal vegetables. Jiangxi Cuisine pursues ultimate freshness, so ingredients are often prepared immediately after being killed or picked. (Zhu 2022, 29-35)

(2) Flavor Types

Jiangxi Cuisine is known for its “spicy” flavor. Unlike the numbing spiciness of Sichuan cuisine, the raw spiciness of Hunan cuisine, or the sour spiciness of Hubei cuisine, Jiangxi Cuisine's spiciness is characterized by its fragrant and fresh heat. The habit of eating spicy food is closely related to Jiangxi’s geographical location. Jiangxi’s typical southern hilly terrain, with its many mountains and abundant rainfall, results in a damp and cold climate in spring and winter, and a humid and hot climate in summer. Chili peppers serve to dispel cold and dampness, leading to the development of Jiangxi people’s dietary habit of eating spicy food.

4. Famous Jiangxi Dishes and Snacks

To promote the Jiangxi Cuisine brand, the Jiangxi Provincial Department of Commerce organized an election for famous Jiangxi dishes and snacks, involving people from all walks of life, with both public voting and expert reviews. Considering factors such as public voting, expert reviews, and the representativeness, diversity, and driving force of the dishes, the final list of “Top Ten Jiangxi Dishes” and “Top Ten Jiangxi Snacks” was determined. According to public voting, Lotus Blood Duck and Beer Braised Duck ranked first and second among the “Top Ten Jiangxi Dishes”, while Nanchang Rice Noodles and Clay Pot Soup ranked first and second among the “Top Ten Jiangxi Snacks”.

(1) Lianhua Blood Duck

Lianhua Blood Duck is a specialty of Pingxiang, named after Lianhua County. It is mainly made from chopped old duck and cleaned duck blood, cooked with chili and other auxiliary ingredients through stir-frying, braising, and stewing. Authentic Lianhua Blood Duck has a spicy taste, firm duck meat, rich but not greasy, and fresh and delicious.

(2) Beer Duck

Beer Duck is a specialty of Nanchang, contrasting with Lotus Blood Duck by using duck pieces and beer as the main ingredients. Braising with beer removes the gamey flavor and enhances the freshness. The finished Beer Duck is tight and chewy, with its full-bodied sauce.

(3) Nanchang Rice Noodles and Clay Pot Soup

Nanchang Rice Noodles and Clay Pot Soup are characteristic breakfasts in Nanchang, considered by locals as the “perfect match”. Nanchang Rice Noodles are usually made with seasonings for breakfast. Each noodle is coated with sauce, resulting in a smooth and delicious texture. Clay pot soup is a special soup in Nanchang, with each ingredient placed individually in a small clay pot. In breakfast shops, these small pots are usually covered with foil and then placed into a larger clay pot, stewed over a gentle fire. This method of stewing produces a delicious and rich soup that retains high nutritional value.

5. Current State of Jiangxi Cuisine

The concept and systematization of Jiangxi Cuisine emerged relatively late, and its popularity and the proportion of the catering industry in other provinces and cities still lag significantly behind the eight major cuisines. With the rapid development of China’s national economy, the industrial development speed, dish innovation, and catering management of Jiangxi Cuisine are relatively weaker compared to the neighboring provinces and major cuisine industries. (Wu 2010, 151-152) When it comes to Jiangxi Cuisine, the first word coming to people’s mind is “spicy”, but there are more well-known spicy cuisines like Sichuan and Hunan cuisines, so the “spiciness” of Jiangxi Cuisine is not its unique feature. To enhance the reputation of Jiangxi Cuisine and promote the Jiangxi Cuisine brand, the People’s Government of Jiangxi Province issued the “Three-Year Action Plan for Building the Jiangxi Cuisine Brand (2021-2023)”, and the Department of Commerce of Jiangxi Province also organized the Jiangxi Cuisine selection activities to inspire people to promote Jiangxi Cuisine and expand consumer confidence.

In recent years, foreign cuisines have flocked into China, and foreign restaurants offering international cuisines have settled in lots of large shopping malls in China. Southeast Asian cuisine is one of the more popular ones, with diverse restaurant formats such as snacks, fast food, hot pot, pubs, and full-course meals, providing consumers with a variety of choices and allowing them to understand a particular cuisine from snacks to full-course meals in detail. As mentioned earlier, the “Jiangxi Cuisine Selection Activity” not only selected dishes but also snacks. The popular “special forces style tourism” since 2023 features tight schedules and fast pace, and special snacks can just meet this demand. For example, the top two “Top Ten Snacks”—Nanchang Rice Noodles and Clay Pot Soup, have become the starting point for tourists to understand the taste of Jiangxi Cuisine. In the modern era of the internet, the promotion of Jiangxi Cuisine could utilize online platforms, like creating a TV show dedicated to preparing Jiangxi Cuisine or engaging in live online broadcasts, to communicate with those who are passionate about Jiangxi Cuisine and gourmet food in general. These approaches can help connect with potential consumers of Jiangxi Cuisine and build its image as a culinary delight. (Guan & Jones 2014, 416-434)

Terms and Expressions

Jiangxi Cuisine 赣菜

Wenshan Diced Meat 文山肉丁

Chrysanthemum Hotpot 菊花火锅

Poyang Fish and Rice 鄱阳鱼米

the literati dishes 文人菜

Lianhua Blood Duck 莲花血鸭

Beer Duck 啤酒烧鸭

Nanchang Rice Noodles 南昌米粉

Clay Pot Soup 瓦罐煨汤

Questions

1. Why is “Gan” the short name for Jiangxi?

2. What kind of ingredients are commonly used in Jiangxi cuisine?

3. What are some historical literary figures associated with Jiangxi cuisine?

4. What are the main cooking techniques of Jiangxi cuisine?

5. What are some famous dishes and snacks of Jiangxi cuisine?

6. What are the similarities between the promotion of Jiangxi cuisine and the promotion of foreign cuisines in China?

References

[1]Guan, J., & Jones, D. L. (2014). The Contribution of Local Cuisine to Destination Attractiveness: An Analysis Involving Chinese Tourists’ Heterogeneous Preferences. Asia Pacific Journal of Tourism Research, 20(4), 416–434. https://doi.org/10.1080/10941665.2014.889727

[2]Wu, Lei [ 吴磊 ]. 2010. The Operation and Development of Jiangxi Cuisine Culture in the Context of Tourism Development [J]. Journal of Liaoning Academy of Governance (5): 151-152. [ 旅游开发场景下赣菜文化的经营与发展，《辽宁行政学院学报》5]

[3]Zhang, Dingfang [ 张定方 ]. 2006. Jiangxi Cuisine Culture and Tourism Catering Management [J]. Journal of Sichuan Tourism University (4): 45-47. [ 赣菜文化与旅游餐饮经营，《四川烹饪高等专科学校学报》4]

[4]Zhu, Hong [ 朱虹 ]. 2022. The Historical Culture of Jiangxi Cuisine and the Revitalization of the Industry Turn [J]. Journal of Nanchang Normal University (3): 29-35. [ 赣菜历史文化与产业振兴转向，《南昌师范学院学报》3]

Data Websites

http://swt.jiangxi.gov.cn/art/2020/12/8/art_35206_2964149.html

http://swt.jiangxi.gov.cn/art/2020/11/25/art_48582_2914469.html

https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1788480854165431688&wfr=spider&for=pc