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2024 MTI Zeng Zhi

Bead Bracelet Culture

As adornments integrating cultural, aesthetic and practical values, bead bracelets boast a long and profound history in China. They are not only decorations on the wrist, but also cultural carriers and historical witnesses. As bead bracelets evolve from ancient bead ornaments to prayer beads, and then to the modern fashionable bead bracelets influenced by diverse cultures, bead bracelet culture also undergoes continued development, in which the social transformation and the changes in people's aesthetic tastes and spiritual needs.

The Symbolic Development of Bead Bracelets in Ancient China

Paleolithic Age: The Origin of Bead Strings

The earliest bead ornaments in China can be traced back to the Paleolithic Age. In the site of the Upper Cave Man in Zhoukoudian, Beijing, archaeologists unearthed necklaces approximately 10,000 years old. They were made by stringing materials like animal teeth, shells, small stone beads, etc. and were used as "amulet". And in the sites of various places in the Neolithic Age, a large number of perforated stone beads, bone tubes, clam shells, jade, agate and other ornaments were also unearthed. These bead ornaments were mostly made of natural materials and were strung and then worn on the body after simple processing. They can be used as decorations, talismans against evil or markers showing the wearer's status.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties: The Emergence of Jade-Based Ritual Culture

During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the jade culture gradually rose to prominence. The nobles began to string precious materials such as jade, stones and agate into ritual objects, which was worn to show identity and status. This "ritual jade"（礼玉） was not only an ornament, but also a symbol of identity, which reflects the etiquette and strict hierarchical system and at that time.

After the Introduction of Buddhism: The Popularity of Prayer Beads

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, as Buddhism flourished in China, prayer beads were introduced to China and gradually became popular. Just as the saying goes"Never let mindfulness depart from the heart, while the prayer beads remain ever in hand". Prayer beads became an important means for Buddhists to enhance their meditative focus and purify their minds. This practice of using prayer beads also became the predecessor of modern bead bracelets rotating in hand. In the Tang Dynasty, prayer beads made of bodhi seeds were highly respected. Scholars and literati often gave prayer beads as gifts to friends. The wearing and use of beads bracelets were no longer limited to religious people, but began to be popular among the literati class. Moreover, the materials and craftsmanship were constantly innovated, and bead bracelets made of various materials such as gold, silver, gemstones and colored glaze appeared.

Qing Dynasty: The Peak of Court Bead Bracelets

In the Qing Dynasty, influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, prayer beads were developed into court beads, which became an important part of the court costume regulations. Court beads are composed of 108 beads, and the materials are diverse, such as Dongzhu (pearl), lapis lazuli, amber, beeswax, coral, turquoise, etc. Different materials of court beads are worn on different occasions. Later, female members in the court simplified the court beads into bead bracelets known as "Eighteen Sons", which could be decorated on clothes or worn the wrist for playing in leisure time. The bead bracelets in the Qing Dynasty were exquisitely made and carefully selected, integrating multiple elements such as religion, etiquette and aesthetics, reflecting the luxury and majesty of the royal family.

Famous Materials for Making Bead Bracelet

Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus)

Small leaf red sandalwood is one of the most renowned woods, primarily produced in southern India, with introduced cultivation in Hainan, Yunnan, Guangxi, and southern Guangdong, China. It features a hard texture, fine grain, smooth material quality, and high oil content. Long-term wearing of bracelets made by this material is believed to have benefits such as regulating qi and blood circulation, calming the mind, and aiding sleep. Its color ranges from light red to deep purple. Over time and with use, the color gradually deepens, forming a unique "patina" (a smooth, lustrous surface layer produced by prolonged handling). This layer of oily luster not only enhances the bracelet's aesthetic appeal but also serves as one of the important standards for evaluating its quality and value.

Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera)

Scented rosewood, is one of the world's most precious hardwoods, hailed as the "pinnacle among wood materials" It is native to low-altitude plains and hilly areas of Diaoluo Mountain and Jianfengling in Hainan Island, China. The wood is dense and hard, featuring beautiful grain patterns with clear textures and smooth lines. It exhibits various grain patterns such as "ghost-face grain" (resembling faces), "landscape grain" (resembling mountains and water), and "butterfly grain," making it highly ornamental. Its color is soft and can display shades ranging from light yellow, deep yellow, to dark brown. After prolonged handling, the luster becomes more warm and translucent, exuding a charming glow.

Jadeite

Jadeite is mainly produced in regions like Myanmar, formed during geological movements under high-temperature and high-pressure environments, where sodium aluminum silicate minerals undergo complex geological processes to form jadeite raw stones, which are later mined and processed into bracelets. In jadeite bracelets, the glass type of jade has high transparency (almost transparent). Apple-green is the most valuable color; the brighter the color and the higher the transparency, the more valuable it is. The ice type comes next, featuring ice-like cracks and good color and transparency. Jadeite becomes more translucent with wearing, nourishing the human body and being nourished in return, as the saying goes: "People nurture jade for three years, and jade nurtures people for a lifetime."

Amber

Amber is a fossilized resin from ancient times, with colors ranging from light yellow to brownish red. The texture is waxy and smooth, feeling like soap to the touch and imparting a warm sensation. It emits a pine resin scent and is believed to help relieve stress. Golden amber, honey amber and blood amber are the common varieties, each possessing unique characteristics. Amber bracelets with larger amber beads command higher value. And bracelets with more well-formed beads also increase the value. Amber exhibits diverse colors and transparency, possessing unique aesthetic appeal and charm.

Reasons for the Rise of Modern Bead Bracelet Culture

Cultural Inheritance and Revival

With the gradual revival of traditional culture, people’s interest in traditional craftsmanship and cultural symbols has grown increasingly strong. As an integral part of Chinese traditional culture, bracelets embody rich historical and cultural connotations. Their unique craftsmanship and cultural implications attract more and more people to understand bead bracelet culture and pass it down. Also, as the handling and appreciating of wenwan bracelets and the Buddhist prayer beads regain public attention, the bead bracelet culture has been further promoted in both its development and inheritance.

Aesthetic Needs and Personalized Expression

In modern society, people’s pursuit of personalization has become more intense. As an accessory that can be matched and chosen freely, bracelets meet people’s needs to showcase individuality and unique aesthetics. With their diverse materials, styles, and colors, bracelets enable people to match them according to personal preferences, identity and different occasion so as to express their self-style and inner qualities. Meanwhile, the craftsmanship and design of bracelets continue to innovate and incorporate more fashionable elements, allowing them to conform to modern aesthetic concepts while at the same time maintaining traditional charm.

Spiritual Support and Cultural Identity

In the fast-paced modern life, people face various pressures and challenges, making bracelets have become a form of spiritual support. Chanting while wearing Buddhist prayer beads and the handling of wenwan bracelets can, to some extent, help people relax, relieve stress, and find inner peace and tranquility. Moreover, wearing bracelets with specific cultural connotations also reflects people’s identification with and sense of belonging to a particular culture—for instance, followers of Buddhist culture wearing prayer beads, and wenwan enthusiasts treasuring wenwan bracelets. Through the carrier of bracelets, cultural identity and group belongingness are reinforced.

Terms and Expressions

Paleolithic Age 旧石器时代

Neolithic Age 新石器时代

Prayer Beads 佛珠/念珠

Court Beads 朝珠

"Eighteen Sons" Bead Bracelets “十八子” 手串

Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus) 小叶紫檀

Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera) 海南黄花梨

Glass Type of Jade 玻璃种（翡翠）

Patina 包浆

Wenwan Bracelets 文玩手串

Questions

Which era can the earliest bead ornaments in China be traced back to?
What type of bracelet did court women in the Qing Dynasty simplify court beads into?
What is one of the reasons for the rise of modern bead bracelet culture?

Answers

Neolithic age.
18 sons bracelets.
For spiritual support in cultural identification.

References

[1]甄宏达.北京文玩文化的演进—从琉璃厂到潘家园[D].重庆师范大学,2018.

[2]青丝.手串——玩转腕间之物[J].中国林业产业,2014,(08):74-75.

[3]朱怡芳.中国玉石文化传统研究[D].清华大学,2009.

[4]韩澄.北京传统首饰技艺传承研究[D].中央民族大学,2011.

[5]郭树涵.谁是文玩菩提子佛珠背后的推手[J].中国新时代,2014,(10):102-105.

手串文化

手串，是一种集文化、美学与实用价值于一体的饰品，在中国有着悠久且深厚的历史。手串不仅是手腕上的装饰，更是文化的载体和历史的见证者。从古老的珠串饰品到佛教中的念珠，再到如今多元文化影响下的时尚单品，手串文化随着手串的推陈出新不断发展。在这一过程中，社会变迁、人们的审美情趣以及精神需求方面的变化也得以体现。

中国古代手串的标志性发展

旧石器时代：珠串的起源

中国最早的手串可追溯至旧石器时代。在北京周口店山顶洞人遗址中出土了距今约1万多年的用兽牙、贝壳、小石珠等串连而成的“护身符”颈饰。在新石器时代的各地遗址中也大量出土了穿孔的石珠、骨管、蚌、玉、玛瑙等饰件，这些早期的珠串饰品多由天然材料制成，经过简单加工后串联在一起用于佩戴，具有装饰性作用，也用于驱邪和作为身份的象征。

商周时期：礼玉的出现

商周时期，玉文化逐渐兴起，贵族们开始将玉、石、玛瑙等珍贵材料穿成串，称为“礼玉”，用于佩戴以显示佩戴者的身份和地位。这种“礼玉”不仅是装饰品，更是身份的象征，体现了当时严格的等级制度和礼仪规范。（朱怡芳，2009 https://yclib.hunnu.edu.cn/vpn/1008/https/NNYHGLUDN3WXTLUPMW4A/kcms2/article/abstract?v=7HNy6Ze5ODGhWKp_HCntUEhDWssFy_nTjUhrpbKBbUufCGY1W2pjF7_Ws8e_DES-hxTOjt_wjZDy_0W5ql2M0FQ6wF_x_y0E3Qn3f9u7QcQ6Zr2_A2AfzkeR88WYIjPmC9XARSpdMdX7Dd3n-zbiGoVxPMWsifGNMdksn6S9sciH32MdEgDH8A==&uniplatform=NZKPT&language=CHS）

佛教传入后：佛珠的流行

魏晋南北朝时期，佛教在中国兴盛，佛珠随之东传并逐渐流行。“念念不离心，数珠恒在手”，佛珠成为佛教徒用来清心净神的一项重要手段，这种数佛珠的仪式，也成为现代人盘手串的前身。唐代，菩提子佛珠备受推崇，文人雅士常以佛珠赠友，手串的佩戴和使用不再局限于宗教人士，在文人阶层中也流行开来，且手串的材质和工艺不断创新，出现了金银、宝石、琉璃等多种材质的手串。

清代：宫廷手串的鼎盛

清代受藏传佛教影响，佛珠发展为朝珠，成为宫廷服饰的重要组成部分。朝珠由108颗珠子组成，材质多样，如东珠（珍珠）、青金石、琥珀、蜜蜡、珊瑚、绿松石等。根据佩戴朝珠的人的官职以及地位的不同，朝珠的选材和色彩搭配也不相同。在不同的场合所佩戴的朝珠材质也不相同。后来，宫廷后宫女眷将朝珠简化为十八子手串（由十八个珠子串联而成的手串），既可佩于衣服上、也可挽在手腕上闲暇时把玩。清代的手串制作工艺精湛，选材考究，融合了宗教、礼仪、审美等多重元素，体现了皇家的奢华与威严。

著名的手串材质

小叶紫檀

小叶紫檀是最著名的木材之一，主要产于印度南部，中国海南、云南、广西、广东南部有引种栽培。其质地坚硬，纹理细密，料质细腻，油性好，长期佩戴具有调节气血、安神助眠等功效。小叶紫檀颜色从淡红到深紫不等，随着时间的推移和佩戴，其颜色会逐渐加深，形成独特的 “包浆”，这层油脂光泽不仅提升了手串的美感，也是衡量其品质和价值的重要标准之一。（Flower wiki, https://www.theflowerwiki.com/woody/23918.html#:~:text=Description%20There%20are%20many%20kinds%20of%20wood%20belonging,and%20its%20Latin%20scientific%20name%20is%20p.%20santalinus.）

海南黄花梨

海南黄花梨，又称海南黄檀木、降香黄檀，是世界上最珍贵的硬木之一，堪称 “木中之冠”，原产于中国海南岛吊罗山尖峰岭低海拔的平原和丘陵地区。其木质坚实、花纹漂亮，纹理清晰、线条流畅，有鬼脸纹、山水纹、蝴蝶纹等多种花纹，极具观赏价值。海南黄花梨色泽柔和，可表现出浅黄、深黄、深褐色等多种颜色，经过盘玩后，色泽会变得更加温润、透亮，呈现出迷人的光泽。（百度百科，https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E9%BB%84%E8%8A%B1%E6%A2%A8%E6%9C%A8/1684154）

翡翠

翡翠主要产于缅甸等地区，形成于地质运动过程中，在高温高压环境下，钠铝硅酸盐矿物经过复杂的地质作用形成翡翠原石，后经开采、加工制成手串。翡翠手串中的玻璃种种水足，几乎透明，其中苹果绿的最贵，颜色越鲜亮、透明度越高的玻璃种越值钱。冰种次之，有冰裂纹，颜色和透明度也较好。翡翠越戴越透亮，能人体相互滋养，有 “人养玉三年，玉养人一生” 的说法。

蜜蜡

蜜蜡是远古树脂化石，颜色从淡黄到棕红不等，质地温润如蜡，摸起来像肥皂，触感温暖。它有松香味道，能舒缓压力，金珀、蜜蜡珀和血珀是常见的蜜蜡种类，每种都各有特色。手串上的蜜蜡越大，其价值越高，蜜蜡形状越规整，其价值也越高。蜜蜡的颜色和透明度多样，有独特美感和魅力。

现代手串文化兴起的原因

文化传承与复兴

随着传统文化的逐渐复兴，人们对传统文化以及手工艺品的兴趣日益浓厚。手串作为中国传统文化的重要组成部分，承载着丰富的历史和文化内涵，其独特的制作工艺和文化寓意吸引着越来越多的人去了解手串文化。人们都愿意佩戴这种展现了传统文化与精妙工艺的饰品，也期待能以这种方式传承与发展手串文化。

审美需求与个性化表达

在现代社会，人们对于个性化的追求愈加强烈，手串作为一种可自由搭配和选择的饰品，能够满足人们展现个性和独特审美的需求。手串的材质、款式、颜色多种多样，人们可以根据自己的喜好、身份、以及不同的场合等进行佩戴。同时，手串的制作工艺和设计在不断创新，融入了时尚与现代元素，在保持了手串传统的韵味的同时，也更符合现代人的审美观念。

精神寄托与文化认同

快节奏的现代生活中，人们面临着各种压力和挑战，手串成为了一种精神寄托的方式。不论是佛珠的诵念还是文玩手串的把玩，能在一定程度上帮助人们放松心情、缓解压力，找到内心的平静和安宁。此外，佩戴具有特定文化内涵的手串，也体现了人们对某种文化的认同和归属感，如佛教文化的信众佩戴佛珠，文玩爱好者珍藏文玩手串等，手串作为这些文化的外部表征，强化了人们的文化认同和群体归属感。（宋丙玲，2014，156-162 https://yclib.hunnu.edu.cn/vpn/1008/https/NNYHGLUDN3WXTLUPMW4A/kcms2/article/abstract?v=uTZa6doZ_i4FlQGp1Sm1s9mwG0dUIHhTLFpagcapJA7i4thaNWw4Hckyw5co-GG_HqtK3JT8TTADzxFvucOmAlGLG7MGWk9lY-7hQhIpwR0jJf3bilEFTgbUlkDQphnPOXtpf9d6j2iiBLgcQORPy4RSgaUlGDORSiHUyd7RcbdIW3itsvJ4nJdIj9wwTo7j&uniplatform=NZKPT&language=CHS）