2024 MTI Zeng Zhi

Bead Bracelet Culture

As objects integrating cultural, aesthetic and practical values, bead bracelets have a long and profound history in China. They are not only decorations on the wrist, but also carriers of culture and witnesses of history. From ancient bead ornaments to prayer beads, and then to the fashionable bead bracelets under the influence of diverse cultures today, the evolution of bead bracelet culture in China is rich and colorful, deeply reflecting social changes and the changes in people's aesthetic tastes and spiritual needs.

The Symbolic Development of Bead Bracelets in Ancient China

Paleolithic Age: The Origin of Bead Strings The earliest bead ornaments in China can be traced back to the Paleolithic Age. In the site of the Upper Cave Man in Zhoukoudian, Beijing, neck ornaments, which are about 10,000 years old, were unearthed. They are made of animal teeth, shells, small stone beads, etc. and are used as "amulet". In the sites of various places in the Neolithic Age, a large number of perforated stone beads, bone tubes, clams, jade, agate and other ornaments were also unearthed. These early bead ornaments were mostly made of natural materials, and were strung and worn on the body after simple processing, with decorative and symbolic meanings, or used for praying for good luck and avoiding evil, or showing the wearer's identity and status.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties: The Emergence of Jade-Based Ritual Culture

During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the jade culture gradually rose to prominence. The nobles began to string precious materials such as jade, stones and agate into ritual objects, which was worn to show identity and status. This "ritual jade" was not only an ornament, but also a symbol of identity, reflecting the strict hierarchical system and etiquette norms at that time.

After the Introduction of Buddhism: The Popularity of Prayer Beads

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Buddhism flourished in China, and prayer beads were introduced to China and gradually became popular. "Never let mindfulness depart from the heart, while the prayer beads remain ever in hand". Prayer beads became an important means for Buddhists to enhance their meditative focus and purify their minds. This practice of using prayer beads also became the predecessor of modern bead bracelets rotating in hand. In the Tang Dynasty, prayer beads made of bodhi seeds were highly respected. Scholars and literati often gave prayer beads as gifts to friends. The wearing and use of beads bracelets were no longer limited to religious people, but began to be popular among the literati class. Moreover, the materials and craftsmanship were constantly innovated, and bead bracelets made of various materials such as gold, silver, gemstones and colored glaze appeared.

Qing Dynasty: The Peak of Court Bead Bracelets

In the Qing Dynasty, influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, prayer beads were developed into court beads, which became an important part of the court costume regulations. Court beads are composed of 108 beads, and the materials are diverse, such as Dongzhu (pearl), lapis lazuli, amber, beeswax, coral, turquoise, etc. Different materials of court beads are worn on different occasions. Later, female members in the court simplified the court beads into bead bracelets known as "Eighteen Sons", which could be decorated on clothes or worn the wrist for playing in leisure time. The bead bracelets in the Qing Dynasty were exquisitely made and carefully selected, integrating multiple elements such as religion, etiquette and aesthetics, reflecting the luxury and majesty of the royal family.

Famous Materials for Making Bead Bracelet

Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus)

Small leaf red sandalwood is one of the most renowned woods, primarily produced in southern India, with introduced cultivation in Hainan, Yunnan, Guangxi, and southern Guangdong, China. It features a hard texture, fine grain, smooth material quality, and high oil content. Long-term wearing of bracelets made by this material is believed to have benefits such as regulating qi and blood circulation, calming the mind, and aiding sleep. Its color ranges from light red to deep purple. Over time and with use, the color gradually deepens, forming a unique "patina" (a smooth, lustrous surface layer produced by prolonged handling). This layer of oily luster not only enhances the bracelet's aesthetic appeal but also serves as one of the important standards for evaluating its quality and value.

Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera)

Scented rosewood, is one of the world's most precious hardwoods, hailed as the "pinnacle among wood materials" It is native to low-altitude plains and hilly areas of Diaoluo Mountain and Jianfengling in Hainan Island, China. The wood is dense and hard, featuring beautiful grain patterns with clear textures and smooth lines. It exhibits various grain patterns such as "ghost-face grain" (resembling faces), "landscape grain" (resembling mountains and water), and "butterfly grain," making it highly ornamental. Its color is soft and can display shades ranging from light yellow, deep yellow, to dark brown. After prolonged handling, the luster becomes more warm and translucent, exuding a charming glow.

Jadeite

Jadeite is mainly produced in regions like Myanmar, formed during geological movements under high-temperature and high-pressure environments, where sodium aluminum silicate minerals undergo complex geological processes to form jadeite raw stones, which are later mined and processed into bracelets. In jadeite bracelets, the glass type of jade has high transparency (almost transparent). Apple-green is the most valuable color; the brighter the color and the higher the transparency, the more valuable it is. The ice type comes next, featuring ice-like cracks and good color and transparency. Jadeite becomes more translucent with wearing, nourishing the human body and being nourished in return, as the saying goes: "People nurture jade for three years, and jade nurtures people for a lifetime."

Amber

Amber is a fossilized resin from ancient times, with colors ranging from light yellow to brownish red. The texture is waxy and smooth, feeling like soap to the touch and imparting a warm sensation. It emits a pine resin scent and is believed to help relieve stress. Golden amber, honey amber and blood amber are the common varieties, each possessing unique characteristics. Amber bracelets with larger amber beads command higher value. And bracelets with more well-formed beads also increase the value. Amber exhibits diverse colors and transparency, possessing unique aesthetic appeal and charm.

Reasons for the Rise of Modern Bead Bracelet Culture

Cultural Inheritance and Revival

With the gradual revival of traditional culture, people’s interest in traditional craftsmanship and cultural symbols has grown increasingly strong. As an integral part of Chinese traditional culture, bracelets embody rich historical and cultural connotations. Their unique craftsmanship and cultural implications attract more and more people to understand bead bracelet culture and pass it down. Also, as the handling and appreciating of wenwan bracelets and the Buddhist prayer beads regain public attention, the bead bracelet culture has been further promoted in both its development and inheritance.

Aesthetic Needs and Personalized Expression

In modern society, people’s pursuit of personalization has become more intense. As an accessory that can be matched and chosen freely, bracelets meet people’s needs to showcase individuality and unique aesthetics. With their diverse materials, styles, and colors, bracelets enable people to match them according to personal preferences, identity and different occasion so as to express their self-style and inner qualities. Meanwhile, the craftsmanship and design of bracelets continue to innovate and incorporate more fashionable elements, allowing them to conform to modern aesthetic concepts while at the same time maintaining traditional charm.

Spiritual Support and Cultural Identity

In the fast-paced modern life, people face various pressures and challenges, making bracelets have become a form of spiritual support. Chanting while wearing Buddhist prayer beads and the handling of wenwan bracelets can, to some extent, help people relax, relieve stress, and find inner peace and tranquility. Moreover, wearing bracelets with specific cultural connotations also reflects people’s identification with and sense of belonging to a particular culture—for instance, followers of Buddhist culture wearing prayer beads, and wenwan enthusiasts treasuring wenwan bracelets. Through the carrier of bracelets, cultural identity and group belongingness are reinforced.

Terms and Expressions

Paleolithic Age 旧石器时代

Neolithic Age 新石器时代

Prayer Beads 佛珠/念珠

Court Beads 朝珠

"Eighteen Sons" Bead Bracelets “十八子” 手串

Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus) 小叶紫檀

Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera) 海南黄花梨

Glass Type of Jade 玻璃种（翡翠）

Patina 包浆

Wenwan Bracelets 文玩手串

Questions

1.Which era can the earliest bead ornaments in China be traced back to?

2.What type of bracelet did court women in the Qing Dynasty simplify court beads into?

3.What is one of the reasons for the rise of modern bead bracelet culture?

References

[1]甄宏达.北京文玩文化的演进—从琉璃厂到潘家园[D].重庆师范大学,2018.

[2]青丝.手串——玩转腕间之物[J].中国林业产业,2014,(08):74-75.

[3]朱怡芳.中国玉石文化传统研究[D].清华大学,2009.

[4]韩澄.北京传统首饰技艺传承研究[D].中央民族大学,2011.

[5]郭树涵.谁是文玩菩提子佛珠背后的推手[J].中国新时代,2014,(10):102-105.

手串文化

手串，作为一种集文化、美学与实用价值于一体的物件，在中国有着悠久且深厚的历史。它不仅是手腕上的装饰，更是文化的载体和历史的见证者。从古老的珠串饰品到宗教中的念珠，再到如今多元文化影响下的时尚手串，手串文化在中国的演变历程丰富多彩，深刻反映了社会变迁与人们审美情趣、精神需求的变化。

中国古代手串的标志性发展

新石器时代：珠串的起源

中国最早的手串可追溯至旧石器时代。在北京周口店山顶洞人遗址中，就出土了距今约1万多年的用兽牙、贝壳、小石珠等串连而成的“护身符”颈饰。新石器时代的各地遗址中也大量出土了穿孔的石珠、骨管、蚌、玉、玛瑙等饰件，这些早期的珠串饰品多由天然材料制成，经过简单加工后串联佩戴在身，具有装饰和象征意义，或用于祈福避邪，或彰显佩戴者的身份地位。

商周时期：礼玉的出现

商周时期，玉文化逐渐兴起，贵族们开始将玉、石、玛瑙等珍贵材料穿成串，称为“礼玉”，用于佩戴以显示身份和地位。这种“礼玉”不仅是装饰品，更是身份的象征，体现了当时严格的等级制度和礼仪规范。

佛教传入后：佛珠的流行

魏晋南北朝时期，佛教在中国兴盛，佛珠随之东传并逐渐流行。“念念不离心，数珠恒在手”佛珠成为佛教徒用来清心净神的一项重要手段，这种数佛珠的仪式，也成为现代人盘手串的前身。唐代，菩提子佛珠备受推崇，文人雅士常以佛珠赠友，手串的佩戴和使用不再局限于宗教人士，开始在文人阶层中流行开来，且材质和工艺不断创新，出现了金银、宝石、琉璃等多种材质的手串。

清代：宫廷手串的鼎盛

清代受藏传佛教影响，将佛珠发展为朝珠，成为宫廷服饰定制的重要组成部分。朝珠由108颗珠子组成，材质多样，如东珠（珍珠）、青金石、琥珀、蜜蜡、珊瑚、绿松石等，不同场合佩戴不同材质的朝珠。宫廷后宫女眷将朝珠简化为十八子手串，既可佩于衣服上、也可挽在手腕上闲暇时把玩。清代的手串制作工艺精湛，选材考究，融合了宗教、礼仪、审美等多重元素，体现了皇家的奢华与威严。

著名的手串材质

小叶紫檀

小叶紫檀是最著名的木材之一，主要产于印度南部，中国海南、云南、广西、广东南部有引种栽培。其质地坚硬，纹理细密，料质细腻，油性好，长期佩戴具有调节气血、安神助眠等功效。颜色从淡红到深紫不等，随着时间的推移和使用，其颜色会逐渐加深，形成独特的 “包浆”，这层油脂光泽不仅提升了手串的美感，也是衡量其品质和价值的重要标准之一。

海南黄花梨

海南黄花梨，又称海南黄檀木、降香黄檀，是世界上最珍贵的硬木之一，堪称 “木中之冠”，原产于中国海南岛吊罗山尖峰岭低海拔的平原和丘陵地区。其木质坚实、花纹漂亮，纹理清晰、线条流畅，有鬼脸纹、山水纹、蝴蝶纹等多种花纹，极具观赏价值。色泽柔和，可表现出浅黄、深黄、深褐色等多种颜色，经过盘玩后，色泽会变得更加温润、透亮，呈现出迷人的光泽。

翡翠

翡翠主要产于缅甸等地区，形成于地质运动过程中，在高温高压环境下，钠铝硅酸盐矿物经过复杂的地质作用形成翡翠原石，后经开采、加工制成手串。翡翠手串中的玻璃种种水足，几乎透明，苹果绿的最贵，颜色越鲜亮、透明度越高越值钱。冰种次之，有冰裂纹，颜色和透明度也较好。翡翠越戴越透亮，与人体相互滋养，有 “人养玉三年，玉养人一生” 的说法。

蜜蜡

蜜蜡是远古树脂化石，颜色从淡黄到棕红不等，质地温润如蜡，摸起来像肥皂，触感温暖。它有松香味道，能舒缓压力，金珀、蜜蜡珀和血珀是常见种类，各有特色。蜜蜡手串越大，价值越高，形状越规整，价值也越高。蜜蜡颜色和透明度多样，有独特美感和魅力。

现代手串文化兴起的原因

文化传承与复兴

随着传统文化的逐渐复兴，人们对传统手工艺和文化符号的兴趣日益浓厚。手串作为中国传统文化的重要组成部分，承载着丰富的历史和文化内涵，其独特的制作工艺和文化寓意吸引着越来越多的人去了解和传承。文玩手串的把玩文化、佛珠的宗教文化等重新受到关注，促使手串文化在现代得以传承和发展。

审美需求与个性化表达

在现代社会，人们对于个性化的追求愈加强烈，手串作为一种可自由搭配和选择的饰品，能够满足人们展现个性和独特审美的需求。不同材质、款式和颜色的手串，可以让人们根据自己的喜好、身份、场合等进行搭配，表达自我风格和内在品质。同时，手串的制作工艺和设计不断创新，融入了更多时尚元素，使其在保持传统韵味的基础上，更符合现代人的审美观念。

精神寄托与文化认同

快节奏的现代生活中，人们面临着各种压力和挑战，手串成为了一种精神寄托的方式。佛珠的诵念、文玩手串的把玩，都能在一定程度上帮助人们放松心情、缓解压力，找到内心的平静和安宁。此外，佩戴具有特定文化内涵的手串，也体现了人们对某种文化的认同和归属感，如佛教文化的信众佩戴佛珠，文玩爱好者珍藏文玩手串等，通过手串这一载体，人们强化了文化认同和群体归属感。

术语与表达

旧石器时代 Paleolithic Age

新石器时代 Neolithic Age

佛珠/念珠 Prayer Beads

朝珠 Court Beads

“十八子” 手串 "Eighteen Sons" Bead Bracelets

小叶紫檀 Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus)

海南黄花梨 Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera)

玻璃种（翡翠） Glass Type of Jade

包浆 Patina

文玩手串 Wenwan Bracelets

问题

1.中国最早的珠子饰品可以追溯到哪个时代？

2.清朝宫廷女性将朝珠简化为何种手串？

3.现代手串文化兴起的原因之一是什么？

参考文献