User:Zeng Zhi

2024 MTI Zeng Zhi

Bead Bracelet Culture

As objects integrating cultural, aesthetic and practical values, bead bracelets have a long and profound history in China. They are not only decorations on the wrist, but also carriers of culture and witnesses of history. From ancient bead ornaments to prayer beads, and then to the fashionable bead bracelets under the influence of diverse cultures today, the evolution of bead bracelet culture in China is rich and colorful, deeply reflecting social changes and the changes in people's aesthetic tastes and spiritual needs.

The Symbolic Development of Bead Bracelets in Ancient China

Paleolithic Age: The Origin of Bead Strings The earliest bead ornaments in China can be traced back to the Paleolithic Age. In the site of the Upper Cave Man in Zhoukoudian, Beijing, neck ornaments, which are about 10,000 years old, were unearthed. They are made of animal teeth, shells, small stone beads, etc. and are used as "amulet". In the sites of various places in the Neolithic Age, a large number of perforated stone beads, bone tubes, clams, jade, agate and other ornaments were also unearthed. These early bead ornaments were mostly made of natural materials, and were strung and worn on the body after simple processing, with decorative and symbolic meanings, or used for praying for good luck and avoiding evil, or showing the wearer's identity and status.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties: The Emergence of Jade-Based Ritual Culture

During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the jade culture gradually rose to prominence. The nobles began to string precious materials such as jade, stones and agate into ritual objects, which was worn to show identity and status. This "ritual jade" was not only an ornament, but also a symbol of identity, reflecting the strict hierarchical system and etiquette norms at that time.

After the Introduction of Buddhism: The Popularity of Prayer Beads

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Buddhism flourished in China, and prayer beads were introduced to China and gradually became popular. "Never let mindfulness depart from the heart, while the prayer beads remain ever in hand". Prayer beads became an important means for Buddhists to enhance their meditative focus and purify their minds. This practice of using prayer beads also became the predecessor of modern bead bracelets rotating in hand. In the Tang Dynasty, prayer beads made of bodhi seeds were highly respected. Scholars and literati often gave prayer beads as gifts to friends. The wearing and use of beads bracelets were no longer limited to religious people, but began to be popular among the literati class. Moreover, the materials and craftsmanship were constantly innovated, and bead bracelets made of various materials such as gold, silver, gemstones and colored glaze appeared.

Qing Dynasty: The Peak of Court Bead Bracelets

In the Qing Dynasty, influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, prayer beads were developed into court beads, which became an important part of the court costume regulations. Court beads are composed of 108 beads, and the materials are diverse, such as Dongzhu (pearl), lapis lazuli, amber, beeswax, coral, turquoise, etc. Different materials of court beads are worn on different occasions. Later, female members in the court simplified the court beads into bead bracelets known as "Eighteen Sons", which could be decorated on clothes or worn the wrist for playing in leisure time. The bead bracelets in the Qing Dynasty were exquisitely made and carefully selected, integrating multiple elements such as religion, etiquette and aesthetics, reflecting the luxury and majesty of the royal family.

Famous Materials for Making Bead Bracelet

Small Leaf Red Sandalwood Bracelet(Pterocarpus Santalinus)

Small leaf red sandalwood is one of the most renowned woods, primarily produced in southern India, with introduced cultivation in Hainan, Yunnan, Guangxi, and southern Guangdong, China. It features a hard texture, fine grain, smooth material quality, and high oil content. Long-term wearing of bracelets made by this material is believed to have benefits such as regulating qi and blood circulation, calming the mind, and aiding sleep. Its color ranges from light red to deep purple. Over time and with use, the color gradually deepens, forming a unique "patina" (a smooth, lustrous surface layer produced by prolonged handling). This layer of oily luster not only enhances the bracelet's aesthetic appeal but also serves as one of the important standards for evaluating its quality and value.

Scented Rosewood Bracelet (Dalbergia Odorifera)

Scented rosewood, is one of the world's most precious hardwoods, hailed as the "pinnacle among wood materials" It is native to low-altitude plains and hilly areas of Diaoluo Mountain and Jianfengling in Hainan Island, China. The wood is dense and hard, featuring beautiful grain patterns with clear textures and smooth lines. It exhibits various grain patterns such as "ghost-face grain" (resembling faces), "landscape grain" (resembling mountains and water), and "butterfly grain," making it highly ornamental. Its color is soft and can display shades ranging from light yellow, deep yellow, to dark brown. After prolonged handling, the luster becomes more warm and translucent, exuding a charming glow.

Jadeite Bracelet

In jadeite bracelets, the glass type of jade has high transparency (almost transparent). Apple-green is the most valuable color; the brighter the color and the higher the transparency, the more valuable it is. The ice type comes next, featuring ice-like cracks and good color and transparency. Jadeite becomes more translucent with wearing, nourishing the human body and being nourished in return, as the saying goes: "People nurture jade for three years, and jade nurtures people for a lifetime." It is mainly produced in regions like Myanmar, formed during geological movements under high-temperature and high-pressure environments, where sodium aluminum silicate minerals undergo complex geological processes to form jadeite raw stones, which are later mined and processed into bracelets.

Amber Bracelet

Amber is a fossilized resin from ancient times, with colors ranging from light yellow to brownish red. The texture is waxy and smooth, feeling like soap to the touch and imparting a warm sensation. It emits a pine resin scent and is believed to help relieve stress. Golden amber, honey amber and blood amber are the common varieties, each possessing unique characteristics. Amber bracelets with larger amber beads command higher value. And bracelets with more well-formed beads also increase the value. Amber exhibits diverse colors and transparency, possessing unique aesthetic appeal and charm.

Reasons for the Rise of Modern Bead Bracelet Culture

Cultural Inheritance and Revival

With the gradual revival of traditional culture, people’s interest in traditional craftsmanship and cultural symbols has grown increasingly strong. As an integral part of Chinese traditional culture, bracelets embody rich historical and cultural connotations. Their unique craftsmanship and cultural implications attract more and more people to understand bead bracelet culture and pass it down. Also, as the handling and appreciating of wenwan bracelets and the Buddhist prayer beads regain public attention, the bead bracelet culture has been further promoted in both its development and inheritance.

Aesthetic Needs and Personalized Expression

In modern society, people’s pursuit of personalization has become more intense. As an accessory that can be matched and chosen freely, bracelets meet people’s needs to showcase individuality and unique aesthetics. With their diverse materials, styles, and colors, bracelets enable people to match them according to personal preferences, identity and different occasion so as to express their self-style and inner qualities. Meanwhile, the craftsmanship and design of bracelets continue to innovate and incorporate more fashionable elements, allowing them to conform to modern aesthetic concepts while at the same time maintaining traditional charm.

Spiritual Support and Cultural Identity

In the fast-paced modern life, people face various pressures and challenges, making bracelets have become a form of spiritual support. Chanting while wearing Buddhist prayer beads and the handling of wenwan bracelets can, to some extent, help people relax, relieve stress, and find inner peace and tranquility. Moreover, wearing bracelets with specific cultural connotations also reflects people’s identification with and sense of belonging to a particular culture—for instance, followers of Buddhist culture wearing prayer beads, and wenwan enthusiasts treasuring wenwan bracelets. Through the carrier of bracelets, cultural identity and group belongingness are reinforced.

Terms and Expressions

Paleolithic Age 旧石器时代 Neolithic Age 新石器时代 Prayer Beads 佛珠 / 念珠 Court Beads 朝珠 "Eighteen Sons" Bead Bracelets “十八子” 手串 Small Leaf Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus) 小叶紫檀 Scented Rosewood (Dalbergia Odorifera) 海南黄花梨 Glass Type of Jade 玻璃种（翡翠） Patina 包浆 Wenwan Bracelets 文玩手串

Questions

1.Which era can the earliest bead ornaments in China be traced back to? 2.What type of bracelet did court women in the Qing Dynasty simplify court beads into? 3.What is one of the reasons for the rise of modern bead bracelet culture?