User:Yan Xiang

                                                                     《阜阳美食-格拉条》

 在每个阜阳人心中，格拉条不仅是一碗面食，更是一部写在瓷碗里的北方面食史诗。(李慧慧 2024，81-83）这种用机器压制而成的粗面条，带着黄澄澄的色泽，在沸水中翻滚时便显露出皖北特有的豪迈气质。当厨师将煮好的面条高高挑起，摔打在案板上发出"格拉格拉"的脆响时，整个面馆便奏响了最动人的市井交响曲。本文将从历史渊源、发展演变、制作过程和文化意义介绍阜阳美食格拉条。

一、历史渊源

 格拉条，也叫格拉面，是安徽省阜阳地区特色传统小吃。堪称阜阳人的意大利面。相传格拉条与苏东坡有关，是阜阳特有的一种食物，颇受当地人的喜爱，在大街小巷都能吃到，关于阜阳格拉条的有多种说法，以下是几种主要的观点：据民间传说，格拉条起源于宋代，与苏东坡有关。（穆成林 2024，109-111）相传苏东坡在颍州（今阜阳）任知府时，结识了当地文人白老先生。白老先生为苏东坡制作了一种类似粉条的圆形面条，煮熟后捞出放入凉水中，再加入芝麻酱、辣椒油、豆芽、香菜等调料。苏东坡品尝后大为赞赏，因其需要搅拌食用，便称之为“格拉条”。另一种说法认为，格拉条的起源可以追溯到明清时期，最初是当地农民在节庆或重要场合用来招待亲友的一道美食。随着时间的推移，格拉条逐渐成为阜阳饮食文化的一部分。还有一种说法认为，格拉条诞生于20世纪80年代。当时阜阳物资相对匮乏，当地居民用简单的食材创造出了这道经典美食，以满足温饱需求。格拉条最初是街头巷尾的简易小吃，后来逐渐走进固定店铺，成为阜阳美食文化的代表。此外，据一些行业专家介绍，格拉条的原型可能是山西的饸饹面。（李昌卉 2023，19）在20世纪30年代，山西商人将饸饹面的制作手艺带入阜阳。由于“饸饹”与“格拉”发音相近，被误称为“格拉条”。后来，阜阳人根据本地饮食习惯，将荞麦面改为小麦面，并将压制工具改为千斤顶，使其成为独具阜阳特色的本土小吃。
 综上所述，虽然关于格拉条的确切起源时间存在多种说法，但它无疑是阜阳地区极具地方特色的传统小吃，承载着当地的历史文化和饮食传统。

二、发展演变

 阜阳格拉条的发展演变经历了多个阶段，其发展历程反映了阜阳地区的饮食文化和生活方式的变迁。（张淼,刘子新,马炳帅 & 万程程 2022，04）格拉条的雏形可能在20世纪30年代就已经出现。当时，阜阳人根据本地饮食习惯，对山西的“饸饹面”进行了改进，将荞麦面改为小麦面，并采用千斤顶压制面条，最初以挑担叫卖的形式出现在街头。这一时期的格拉条多为季节性小吃，主要在夏季售卖，口味较为单一。20世纪80年代，随着改革开放的推进，格拉条开始在阜阳大街小巷流行起来。这一时期，格拉条的制作方式和经营形式都发生了显著变化：首先，制作工具从木制的饸饹床改进为铁制千斤顶，更加省力；其次，经营方式从挑担叫卖转变为固定店铺经营，冷热两食均可；最后，配料也更加丰富，除了传统的豆芽、蒜泥外，还增加了芹菜、黄瓜、豆角等时令蔬菜，调料种类也增多。进入21世纪后，格拉条的发展进入了一个新的阶段。格拉条店如雨后春笋般出现在阜阳的大街小巷，成为当地居民早餐或午餐的首选。除了传统的香辣口味，还出现了清淡、麻辣等多种口味，以满足不同人群的需求。格拉条不仅是一种美食，还成为了阜阳的文化符号。当地甚至出现了以格拉条为主题的歌曲《格拉条之歌》，用阜阳方言演唱，深受当地人喜爱。（杨帅帅,吴翠玲,李俊 & 梁进 2019，115-119）近年来，随着科技的发展，格拉条的制作方式也更加现代化。一些店铺开始使用电动千斤顶，进一步提高了制作效率。同时，格拉条也在尝试品牌化发展，但目前仍以个体经营为主。
 总的来说，格拉条从一种简单的街头小吃发展成为阜阳的代表性美食，其发展历程体现了阜阳地区饮食文化的传承与创新。

三、制作过程

 阜阳格拉条的制作过程包括以下几个关键步骤：一、准备面团。这个过程包含和面和醒面两个步骤：在和面时应选用优质高筋面粉，加入适量盐和水，揉成较硬的面团。面团越硬，格拉条的口感越劲道。在醒面时将揉好的面团盖上湿布或保鲜膜，醒面20-30分钟，让面团充分松弛。二、压制面条。传统的方法是将醒好的面团放入特制的压面机（如千斤顶或带有筛眼的铁桶）中，通过旋转方向盘或使用千斤顶，将面团从筛眼中压出，形成粗细均匀的面条，直接掉入沸水中煮熟。而随着现代技术的发展，部分店铺使用电动压面机，更加省力且卫生。三、煮面与过水。面条入锅后，煮至七八分熟（约2-3分钟），捞出。之后将煮好的面条放入冷水中过凉，反复几次，使面条更加爽滑劲道。四、准备配料。准备的蔬菜包含黄豆芽、芹菜、豆角等时令蔬菜，焯水后备用。之后准备调料如芝麻酱、辣椒油、蒜泥、香菜、荆芥等。五、调味与搅拌。将过水后的格拉条放入碗或盆中，加入适量的煮熟蔬菜。之后加入芝麻酱、辣椒油、蒜泥、香菜等调料，搅拌均匀。最后浇上一勺热面汤，使面条更加入味。
 以上步骤是制作传统阜阳格拉条的经典工艺，每一个步骤都体现了阜阳美食的独特魅力和地方特色。

四、文化意义

 阜阳格拉条不仅仅是一种美食，更是阜阳地域文化的重要载体，具有深厚的文化意义。（付镇铖 2016，189-190）
 地域文化的象征
 阜阳格拉条是阜阳地区极具代表性的传统小吃，其独特的制作工艺和风味体现了皖北地区的饮食文化特色。作为小麦主产区，阜阳的面食文化丰富多样，格拉条以其筋道的口感和浓郁的芝麻酱香，成为当地饮食文化的重要符号。此外，“格拉条”这一名称来源于阜阳方言“格拉”，意为“搅拌”，这种充满地域特色的名字也成为阜阳文化的一个独特标识。

 乡愁与情感纽带
 对于阜阳人来说，格拉条不仅仅是一道菜，更是家乡的味道和情感寄托。无论走到哪里，阜阳人都会对家乡的格拉条念念不忘。它承载着对家乡的思念和眷恋，成为连接阜阳人与家乡的情感纽带。许多在外的阜阳人回到家乡后的第一件事，就是去吃一碗格拉条，仿佛只有这样才能找到回家的感觉。

 社交与生活的一部分
 格拉条在阜阳人的日常生活中扮演着重要角色。它不仅是早餐、午餐或晚餐的选择，更是一种社交媒介。在阜阳的街头巷尾，格拉条店是人们聚会、聊天的重要场所。无论是上班族匆忙解决早餐，还是亲朋好友聚会聊天，格拉条店总是热闹非凡。一碗格拉条，拉近了人与人之间的距离，让陌生人也能迅速熟络起来。

 方言文化的载体
 格拉条的名称和食用方式都与阜阳方言密切相关。在吃格拉条时，当地人会用方言“使劲霍楞”（搅拌）来表达对这道美食的喜爱，这种独特的方言梗不仅增加了吃格拉条的趣味性，也让外地人通过美食了解阜阳的方言文化。

 地域情怀与精神寄托
 格拉条承载着阜阳人对家乡的深厚情感，是家乡的象征。它体现了阜阳人的勤劳智慧、豪爽热情以及对生活的热爱。无论时代如何变迁，格拉条所承载的地域情怀都将永远留在阜阳人的心中，代代相传。（高贵凤 2014，85-87）
 总之，阜阳格拉条不仅是一种美食，更是一种文化的象征，它承载着阜阳人的记忆与情感，成为这座城市不可或缺的一部分。

小结

 从街头小摊到连锁店面，格拉条始终保持着平民美食的本色。它见证了阜阳从古朴小城到现代化都市的变迁，却始终未改其粗犷本味。在这碗看似简单却暗藏玄机的面条里，咀嚼到的是皖北人对生活的热忱，以及对面食文化最执着的坚守。

参考文献

[1]李慧慧.(2024-10-11).阜阳格拉条品牌化发展及营销推广研究,科学导报,B03,81-83. [2]穆成林.(2024).阜阳市非物质文化遗产传承与旅游融合发展研究.旅游纵览,(04),109-111. [3]李昌卉.(2023).那一碗记忆中的格拉条.语文新读写,(04),19. [4]张淼,刘子新,马炳帅 & 万程程.(2022-07-26).做实美食名菜让“阜阳味道”香飘全国,江淮时报,004. [5]杨帅帅,吴翠玲,李俊 & 梁进.(2019).即食型绿茶双孢菇格拉条的研制.茶业通报,41(03),115-119.doi:10.16015/j.cnki.jteabusiness.2019.0020. [6]付镇铖.(2016).阜阳饮食文化旅游资源开发研究.中国市场,(04),189-190.doi:10.13939/j.cnki.zgsc.2016.04.189. [7]高贵凤.(2014).营销视阈下阜阳市非遗保护与传承.阜阳职业技术学院学报,25(02),85-87.

术语表达

1. 格拉条 - Gela noodles 2. 饸饹面 - Hele noodles (Shanxi-style) 3. 千斤顶 - hydraulic press/lever press 4. 皖北 - northern Anhui 5. 高筋面粉 - high-gluten flour 6. 醒面 - dough resting 7. 过水 - cold-water shocking 8. 芝麻酱 - sesame paste 9. 荆芥 - schizonepeta (culinary herb) 10. 阜阳方言 - Fuyang dialect

问题

1、关于格拉条的起源有几种常见观点？ 答案：四种 2、格拉条在何时进入了一个新的发展阶段？ 答案：21世纪之后 3、格拉条的制作过程包含几个哪些步骤？ 答案：准备面团；压制面条；煮面与过冷水；准备配料；调味与搅拌 4、在吃格拉条时，当地人一般会用哪句方言表达对这道美食的喜爱之情？ 答案：使劲霍楞 5、你如何理解格拉条作为乡愁与情感纽带这一文化意义？ 答案：它是家乡的味道和情感寄托，承载着对家乡的思念和眷恋。

                                                             Fuyang Cuisine - Gela Noodles

 In the hearts of every Fuyang native, Gela noodles are not just a bowl of pasta but an epic of northern-style wheat cuisine inscribed in porcelain bowls. (Li Huihui 2024，81-83）These machine-pressed thick noodles, with their golden hue, reveal the bold character of northern Anhui as they tumble in boiling water. When the chef lifts the cooked noodles high and slaps them onto the counter with a crisp “gela-gela” sound, the entire noodle shop resonates with the most captivating symphony of street life. This article explores the historical origins, evolution, production process, and cultural significance of Fuyang’s iconic Gela noodles.

I. Historical Origins

 Gela noodles, also known as “Gela mian”, are a traditional specialty snack from Fuyang, Anhui Province, often dubbed “the spaghetti of Fuyang.” Legends associate them with Su Dongpo, making them a unique local delicacy beloved by residents and widely available across the city.（Mu Chenglin 2024，109-111） Several theories exist about their origin:According to the Song Dynasty Legend, Folklore suggests Gela noodles date back to the Song Dynasty, linked to Su Dongpo. During his tenure as a magistrate in Yingzhou (modern Fuyang), Su befriended a local scholar, Bai, who prepared round noodles resembling “fen tiao” (vermicelli). Served cold with sesame paste, chili oil, bean sprouts, and cilantro, Su praised the dish and named it “Gela”(from “ge la”, meaning “to stir”). In the Ming-Qing Era Theory, some believe Gela noodles originated during the Ming or Qing Dynasties as a festive dish for farmers to entertain guests, later becoming a staple of Fuyang’s culinary culture. Another view holds that Gela noodles emerged in the 1980s amid material scarcity, crafted from simple ingredients to meet basic dietary needs. Initially a street food, they gradually entered established eateries. Industry experts note similarities to Shanxi’s “hele noodles”.（Li Changhui 2023，19） In the 1930s, Shanxi merchants introduced “hele” noodle techniques to Fuyang. The name morphed from “hele” to “Gela” due to phonetic resemblance, with wheat replacing buckwheat and manual presses adapting to local tastes.
 In summary, while the exact origin remains debated, Gela noodles undeniably embody Fuyang’s regional identity, carrying forward its historical and culinary heritage.

II. Evolution

 Gela noodles’ development reflects shifts in Fuyang’s food culture and lifestyle: Adapted from Shanxi’s “hele” noodles, early versions used wheat flour and lever-operated presses, sold seasonally by street vendors from 1930s to 1970s.（Zhang，Liu,Ma,Wan 2022，04） In the 1980s, post-reform economic openness spurred popularity. Innovations included iron presses, fixed storefronts, and enriched toppings (bean sprouts, garlic paste, celery, cucumber).In the 21st Century, Gela noodles became a breakfast/lunch staple, diversifying into mild and spicy variants. Cultural prominence grew, exemplified by the dialect song “Gela Noodles Anthem.” （Zhhang,Wu,Li,Liang 2019，115-119）In the Modern Era, Electric presses and branding attempts emerged, though most outlets remain small-scale.
 In short, from humble street fare to cultural emblem, Gela noodles epitomize Fuyang’s culinary resilience.

III. Production Process

 Key steps define traditional Gela noodle craftsmanship. First, prepare dough. This process includes mixing high-gluten flour with salt and water into a stiff dough and resting under damp cloth for 20–30 minutes. Second, pressing noodles. You can extrude dough through a lever- or hydraulic-press into boiling water. Modern shops tend to use electric machines for efficiency. Third, boil and Cool. You need to parboil for 2–3 minutes, then shock in cold water for chewiness. Four, add toppings and sauce. You need blanched seasonal veggies (bean sprouts, celery) paired with sesame paste, chili oil, garlic, and herbs. Lastly, combine noodles, toppings, and sauce vigorously (“huo leng” in dialect), finishing with hot broth.
 Each step showcases Fuyang’s culinary ethos—simplicity with depth.

IV. Cultural Significance

 Beyond sustenance, Gela noodles symbolize Fuyang’s identity in many parts.(Fu Zhencheng 2016，189-190）
Cultural Icon
 Fuyang Gelanoodles (Gelatiao) is a highly representative traditional snack in the Fuyang region, whose distinctive preparation techniques and flavors epitomize the culinary characteristics of northern Anhui Province. As a major wheat-producing area, Fuyang boasts a diverse noodle culture, with Gelanoodles standing out as a significant culinary symbol due to its chewy texture and rich sesame paste aroma. Furthermore, the name "Gelatiao" derives from the Fuyang dialect word "Gela," meaning "to stir" or "to mix." This linguistically distinctive nomenclature has itself become a unique cultural identifier of Fuyang.
Nostalgia
For the people of Fuyang, Gelanoodles (Gelatiao) transcend mere culinary fare—they embody the nostalgic flavors and emotional resonance of home. Wherever they may roam, Fuyang natives invariably cherish a profound longing for this hometown specialty. These noodles serve as a visceral tether to their roots, carrying deep-seated yearnings and affection for their homeland. For many diasporic Fuyang residents, savoring a bowl of Gelanoodles constitutes the inaugural ritual upon returning home, as if only through this gustatory experience can they truly reclaim the sensation of homecoming.
Social Glue
 Gelanoodles (Gelatiao) play a pivotal role in the daily lives of Fuyang residents. Far more than just a meal option for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, they function as a vital social medium. Across Fuyang’s streets and alleys, Gelanoodle eateries serve as key gathering spots where people socialize and converse. Whether it’s office workers grabbing a quick breakfast or friends and family gathering for lively chatter, these noodle shops are always bustling with activity. A simple bowl of Gelanoodles bridges social gaps, fostering camaraderie even among strangers and facilitating instant connections.
Dialect Vehicle
 The name and eating style of "Gelatiao" are closely tied to the Fuyang dialect. When enjoying this dish, locals use the dialect phrase "使劲霍楞" (stir vigorously) to express their fondness for it. This unique dialect reference not only adds fun to the eating experience but also allows outsiders to learn about Fuyang's dialect culture through its cuisine.
Spiritual Anchor
 The dish embodies Fuyang’s industriousness, warmth, and unwavering love for life.（Gao Guifeng 2014，85-87）.Gelatiao carries the profound emotional attachment of Fuyang people to their hometown, serving as a symbol of local identity. It embodies the diligence, wisdom, forthrightness, and passion of Fuyang locals, as well as their deep love for life. No matter how times change, the regional sentiment embedded in Gelatiao will forever remain in the hearts of Fuyang people, passed down from generation to generation.

Conclusion

 From alleys to franchises, Gela noodles retain their proletarian charm. They’ve witnessed Fuyang’s urbanization yet stubbornly preserved their rustic soul. In each resilient strand lies northern Anhui’s passion for life and unyielding devotion to noodle culture.

References

1. Li, H. H. (2024, October 11). Research on brand development and marketing promotion of Fuyang Gratiao. Science Guide, B03. 2. Mu, C. L. (2024). Research on the integrated development of intangible cultural heritage inheritance and tourism in Fuyang City. Tourism Overview, (4), 109–111. 3. Li, C. H. (2023). That bowl of Gratiao in memory. New Reading and Writing in Chinese, (4), 19. 4. Zhang, M., Liu, Z. X., Ma, B. S., & Wan, C. C. (2022, July 26). Making famous dishes a reality: Letting the “Taste of Fuyang” spread nationwide. Jianghuai Times, 004. 5. Yang, S. S., Wu, C. L., Li, J., & Liang, J. (2019). Development of instant green tea and Agaricus bisporus Gratiao. Journal of Tea Business, 41(3), 115–119. https://doi.org/10.16015/j.cnki.jteabusiness.2019.0020 6. Fu, Z. C. (2016). Research on the development of Fuyang’s culinary cultural tourism resources. China Market, (4), 189–190. https://doi.org/10.13939/j.cnki.zgsc.2016.04.189 7. Gao, G. F. (2014). Protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage in Fuyang from a marketing perspective. Journal of Fuyang Vocational Technical College, 25(2), 85–87.

Terms and Expressions

1. 格拉条 - Gela noodles 2. 饸饹面 - Hele noodles (Shanxi-style) 3. 千斤顶 - hydraulic press/lever press 4. 皖北 - northern Anhui 5. 高筋面粉 - high-gluten flour 6. 醒面 - dough resting 7. 过水 - cold-water shocking 8. 芝麻酱 - sesame paste 9. 荆芥 - schizonepeta (culinary herb) 10. 阜阳方言 - Fuyang dialect

Questions

1. What are the common theories about the origin of “Gela Noodles”? Answer：Four theories. 2. When did Gela Noodles enter a new phase of development? Answer：After 21 century. 3. What are the key steps in the making of Gela Noodles? Answer: There are four steps: prepare dough; press noodles; boil and cool; add toppings and sauce; combine noodles and toppings. 4. What local dialect phrase do people often use to express their love for Gela Noodles? Answer: Huo leng in dialect. 5. How do you interpret Gela Noodle's cultural significance as a symbol of nostalgia and emotional connection? Answer: Gelatiao is more than just a dish—it’s the flavor of home and a vessel of emotions, embodying the longing and love for one’s hometown.