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Final exam paper

Luoyang Water Banquet

The Origin of the Name “Water Banquet”

The Longmen Grottoes, the peony and the Water Banquet are considered the Three Wonders of Luoyang (an ancient city in Henan province).

In this city steeped in millennia of history, whether among dignitaries or the common folk, a bowl of soup is an indispensable part of daily life. Cantonese cuisine is renowned for its soups, which are delicate. But, Luoyang people believe that it cannot match its enduring tradition of soup. Moreover, the cultural traditions embedded in these soups trace back to the Tang Dynasty, carrying a thousand years of history.

The Luoyang Water Banquet is named for two reasons: First, every hot dish in the banquet is cooked with various broths, gravies, or juices. Second, the way of serving dishes is like flowing water, with one course finished and replaced by the next in a seamless manner.

This is not just a meal, but also embodies a thousand years of culture. It is a living tradition woven into daily life.

Composition of the Luoyang Water Banquet

The Water Banquet consists of twenty-four dishes, symbolizing the 24 years from when Wu Zetian took control of state affairs in the first year of Yonglong (680 AD) until her death in the Shangyang Palace of Luoyang in the first year of Shenlong (705 AD).

The serving order follows a strict procedure. First, 8 cold dishes are served. After guests have enjoyed several rounds of drinks, the hot dishes are served. Four main dishes are presented, each accompanied by two “small dishes” as side dishes. It is called “going to the imperial court with sons”. At last four “end dishes” are served, including an egg soup. It signals that all dishes have been served and the banquet is about to end. Hence, it is also known as the “farewell soup”.

The Eight Symbolic Dishes

The first eight dishes symbolize the eight aspects or achievements of Wu Zetian's reign: “Clothing (服),” “Rituals (礼),” “Political wisdom (韬),” “Desires (欲),” “Arts (艺),” “Literature (文),” “Zen (禅),” and “Governance (政)”.

Clothing: During Wu Zetian’s period, the Tang Dynasty experienced the Reign of Zhenguan, a time of unprecedented prosperity in economy and culture. As Wu Zetian herself was also particular about fashion, the clothing culture of the Tang Dynasty reached its peak.

Rituals: China is a nation of rituals, with a profound and extensive culture of propriety that feudal rulers throughout history used to stabilize society. Wu Zetian also vigorously employed rituals to govern and stabilize the state.

Political wisdom: “Tao” (韬) refers to implies foresight and long-term planning, reflecting her political wisdom.

Desires: This refers to human basic desires. The saying goes, “Food and sex are human nature”.

Arts: Wu Zetian herself enjoyed music and dance.

Literature: This represents literary accomplishment.

Buddhism: Wu Zetian revered Buddhism and had a deep connection with Buddhism.

Governance: this stands for state affairs. Wu Zetian administered the state with remarkable diligence.

Four Pillar Dishes

The four main courses are Peony Swallow Dish, Scallion-Braised Tigerhead Carp, Braised Pork with Fermented Tofu Sauce, and Cabbage Stewed with Dried Shrimp.

The second dish, Scallion-Braised Tigerhead Carp, is made by carp. It symbolizes respect for elders and esteemed guests.

The fourth course, Cabbage Stewed with Dried Shrimp, serves to cut through the greasiness of the preceding meat dishes.

The Peony Swallow Dish is the soul of the Water Banquet, a perfect fusion of cuisine and culture. It echoes the imagery of Luoyang’s peonies while using shredded radish to replicate the form and flavor of bird’s nest.

Legend has it that Wu Zetian was forced to become a nun at the Ganye Temple in Luoyang. At that time, she was still targeted by political rivals. She was poisoned by the empress. When she was abandoned in the wilderness, she survived by eating a radish. After ascending the throne, she honored the radish as the “Righteous Vegetable”. One autumn, an enormous radish—green on top, white below, weighing twenty to thirty pounds—grew in Luoyang and was presented to the emperor. She was delighted. She ordered the imperial chefs to prepare a dish using the radish. To showcase their skill, the chefs meticulously processed the radish, combined it with various delicacies, and created an exquisite soup. Empress Wu tasted it and found its texture remarkably similar to precious bird’s nest. She thus bestowed upon it the name “Sai Yan Wo (Imitation Bird’s Nest)”.

Over time, this dish was perfected, eventually becoming known as “Luoyang Swallow Dish”.

In 1973, Premier Zhou Enlai accompanied Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau on a visit to Luoyang. Local master chefs prepared a unique “Luoyang Swallow Dish” for them, featuring a pristine white peony floating on the broth, which won high praise from the guests. Premier Zhou praised it, “Luoyang peonies are unparalleled, and now peonies bloom within the soup”.

The Eight Supporting Dishes

Following the four main dishes, eight dishes are served, five in the front and three at the back. The first five are Quick-Cooked Trio, Wuliu Fish (Sweet and Sour Crispy Fish with Colorful Vegetables), Diced Fish in Light Sauce, Diced Chicken, and Stir-Fried Crane Breast. The final three desserts typically include Eight-Treasure Rice Pudding, Candied Sweet Potato, and Sweet-and-Sour Pork Loin. The character for “tang” (糖) is a homophone for “tang” (唐), subtly hinting at the Wu Zhou Dynasty replacing the Li Tang Dynasty.

The Four Concluding Dishes

The final four soups symbolize Empress Wu Zetian’s four honorific titles after ascending the throne: first as “Emperor of the Great Zhou Dynasty,” second as “Golden Wheel Holy Divine Emperor,” third as “Transcendent Golden Wheel Holy Divine Emperor,” and fourth as “Merciful Transcendent Golden Wheel Holy Divine Emperor”.

In practice, the composition and number of dishes may be adjusted according to the scale of the feast.

The Origin of Luoyang Water Banquet

Legend

Legend has it that when Empress Wu once inspected Luoyang, local officials hosted her with a water banquet. This feast featured a combination of meat and vegetables, a wide variety of dishes, and a refreshing taste. Wu Zetian had accustomed to delicacies, so she was particularly enchanted by this folk feast. Her accompanying officials all echoed her view. Thus, the Water Banquet entered the imperial court. During festivals and celebrations, Empress Wu would reward her officials with the Water Banquet, elevating it to a formal, high-end banquet. Officials followed suit, and the Water Banquet became a common choice for official entertainment. Thanks to their promotion, the Water Banquet became more popular, while its cooking techniques and presentation styles became increasingly refined and diverse.

Geographical Factors

Luoyang is surrounded by mountains and situated in a basin, resulting in low precipitation and an dry climate. In ancient times, the winters were cold, and fruits were scarce during this season. So the people primarily drinked soups and broths to replenish fluids and ward off the cold.

The Luo River, Yi River, and other waterways crisscross the region. The Yellow River also flowed through it. Consequently, Luoyang abounds in fish, shrimp, crabs, clams, pheasants, wild rabbits, fungus, antler, soft-shelled turtles, and various medicinal herbs. These plentiful local resources build a foundation for the formation and development of the Water Banquet.

Social Factors

Luoyang, once the ancient capital of the thirteen dynasties, long served as a political, economic, and cultural hub. People from all over converged here, bringing diverse dietary habits and cooking techniques. It absorbed regional characteristics and gradually formed its own tradition. It is featured by emphasizing practicality over elaborate presentation and favoring light dishes beneficial to health.

From the Northern Wei to the Sui and Tang dynasties, Buddhism flourished in the Luoyang area, with numerous temples, monks and nuns. To gain support from the upper classes, they devoted themselves to developing exquisite vegetarian fare to entertain distinguished patrons. They selected distinctive local ingredients and combined them with the folk custom of enjoying soups. This is considered the earliest form of the Luoyang Water Banquet. This cooking method circulated among the aristocracy, was refined with the addition of delicacies and was eventually introduced to the imperial court.

References

[1] 介苗丁, 2021. 洛阳水席: 从宫廷到民间传承千年的豫菜名宴[J]. 中国食品工业(18):73-75.

[2] 朱佩娴, 游仪, 李蕊. 特色餐饮, 不只满足舌尖[N]. 人民日报, 2025-08-08(007).

[3] 密林, 苹果, 2021. 洛阳: 千年沧桑在一锅汤里翻滚[J]. 科学之友(上半月)(02):72-75.

[4] 马欢欢, 2016. 洛阳饮食文化初探[J]. 南宁职业技术学院学报, 21(01):20-23.

[5] 赵志伟, 连漪. 洛阳水席是中国饮食文化的璀璨明珠[N]. 洛阳日报, 2008-11-12(002).

[6] 张晨晨, 2007. 洛阳“三绝”之首——洛阳水席[J]. 躬耕(天下豫商)(10):25.

[7] 中华网. 牡丹燕菜: 洛阳水席的传奇开篇[EB/OL]. (2025-08-12)[2025-12-27]. https://mtz.china.com/touzi/2025/0812/181653.html.

[8] 全悦. 洛阳水席[EB/OL]. (2012-03-30)[2025-12-27]. https://www.mct.gov.cn/preview/special/3578/3596/201203/t20120330_235424.html.

[9] 洛阳师范学院. Info about Shuixi[EB/OL]. [2025-12-27]. https://sites.lynu.edu.cn/gjhz/wjzp/Info_about_Shuixi.htm.

Terms

洛阳水席 Luoyang Water Banquet

牡丹燕菜 Peony Swallow Dish

前八礼 Eight Symbolic Dishes

四镇桌 Four Pillar Dishes

八大件 Eight Supporting Dishes

四扫尾 Four Concluding Dishes

带子上朝 going to the imperial court with sons

送客汤 farewell dish

Questions

1.Why is the Luoyang Water Banquet named as such?

2.What role did Buddhism play in the development of the Luoyang Water Banquet?

3.What is the meaning behind the “farewell soup”?

4.How did “Peony Swallow Dish” get its name?

Answers

1.There are two reasons: First, all the hot dishes served at the banquet come with soup or broth. Second, the way dishes are served flows like water. As soon as one dish is finished, it is replaced by another continuously.

2.Buddhism served as a significant driving force. From the Northern Wei to the Tang dynasty, Buddhism flourished in Luoyang. To entertain noble patrons, monks combined local ingredients with the folk custom to create vegetarian feasts featuring integrated soups and vegetables. This was the earliest LuoYang Water Banquet.

3.The “farewell soup” refers to the final dish: egg soup. Its meaning is to politely signal to guests that all dishes have been served and the banquet is about to end.

4.Empress Wu Zetian once praised a soup made with shredded radish for its texture similar to bird’s nest, bestowing upon it the name “Sai Yan Wo” (Imitation Bird’s Nest).

Over time, this dish was perfected. Because it originated in Luoyang, it was named “Luoyang Swallow Dish”.

In 1973, when local master chefs prepared this dish for Premier Zhou Enlai and Canadian dignitaries, a pristine white peony floated on the soup. Premier Zhou praised it, saying, “Luoyang peonies are unparalleled, and now peonies bloom within the soup”. Thus, the name “Peony Swallow Dish” was born.

期末论文

洛阳水席

“水席”之名的来源

游龙门、赏牡丹、吃水席，并称为古都洛阳“三绝”。

在这座浸润着千年历史的城市里，无论是显贵名流还是市井百姓，从早到晚离不开一碗汤。洛阳人认为，粤菜虽以煲汤闻名，其精致细腻固然可贵，却不及洛阳汤文化源远流长，而且这些汤水中的文化讲究，是自唐代传承而来，已有千年的文化历史。

洛阳⽔席之所以称为“⽔席”，有两个原因：⼀是宴席上全部热菜皆有汤，整桌宴席上都是汤汤⽔⽔；⼆是上菜方式如行云流水，吃完一道，撤换一道，接连不断。

这不仅是一餐饭，还蕴含着千年的文化，是一种融于日常的活态文化。

洛阳水席的构成

⽔席共有⼆⼗四道菜，象征武则天从永隆元年总揽朝政到神龙元年病逝洛阳上阳宫的 24 年。

上菜顺序遵循严格的流程，通常是先上⼋个凉菜；待客⼈酒过三巡再上热菜：⾸先上四道大菜，每上⼀道跟上两道中等分量的菜，这被称为“带⼦上朝”。最后上四道压桌菜，其中有⼀道鸡蛋汤。这道汤一上，就等于委婉地提示客人：菜已全部上齐，宴席即将结束。所以它也叫 “送客汤”。

前八礼

前八礼象征武则天时代的“服”、“礼”、“韬”、“欲”、“艺”、“文”、“禅”、“政”，代表了武则天执政的一个方面或功绩。

服”指服装。武则天时期，唐经历了贞观之治，经济文化空前发达，因为武则天本人又很讲究穿着，所以唐朝的服饰文化达到顶峰。

“礼”指礼仪。中国是礼仪之邦，礼文化内涵精深博大，历代封建统治者用以稳定社会。武则天也大力用礼法来治理和稳定国家。

“韬”有深谋远略的意思，指她的政治智慧。

“欲”指人基本的欲望。“食、色，性也”，讲的就是人欲。

“艺”指艺术，武则天本人喜好音乐和歌舞。

“文”代表文学造诣。

“禅”代表与佛教的缘分。武则天推崇佛教，与佛门关系很深。

“政”代表政事。武则天治理国家非常勤勉。

四镇桌

四道主菜分别是牡丹燕菜、葱扒虎头鲤、云罩腐乳肉、海米生百彩。

第二道菜，葱扒虎头鲤，用鲤鱼烹制，寓意尊敬长辈和贵人。

第四道菜，海米生百彩，目的是为了调和前面两道荤菜的油腻感。

牡丹燕菜是水席的灵魂，堪称饮⾷与⽂化的完美融合，既呼应了洛阳牡丹的意象，又用素菜（萝卜丝）做出了荤菜（燕窝）的形与味。

相传武则天当年在洛阳感业寺削发为尼，仍遭异党加害，被皇后毒酒赐尽，抛尸荒野，靠一个萝卜充饥活命。她当上皇帝后便封萝卜为“义菜”。有一年的秋后，洛阳生长出一特大萝卜，上青下白，重约二三十斤，进贡给皇帝。女皇见之大悦,便让御厨用萝卜做菜。御厨们知道萝卜做不出什么好菜，但为了显示高超的技艺，经过反复琢磨，精心加工，配上各种山珍海味，做成了鲜美的汤羹。武则天一尝，觉得口感竟像名贵的燕窝，就赐名“赛燕窝”。

随着历史的变迁，“赛燕窝”经过不断的创新与发展，日臻完善，因起源于洛阳，故称之为洛阳燕菜。

1973年，周恩来总理陪同加拿大总理特鲁多到洛阳参观旅游，当地名厨为他们做了一道清香别致的“洛阳燕菜”，一朵洁白的牡丹花浮于汤面之上，赢得宾客的赞赏。周总理曾夸奖说“洛阳牡丹甲天下，菜中更⽣牡丹花”。

八大件

四道大菜过后，接着上的是八大件，分前五后三。前五道是快三样、五柳鱼、鱼仁、鸡丁、爆鹤脯。后三道则是甜食，一般有八宝饭、甜拔丝、糖醋里脊。“糖”即“唐朝”的谐音，暗指武则天建立的武周王朝取代了李唐天下。

四扫尾

最后是四道汤菜，即“鱼翅插花”、“金猴探海”、“开鱿争春”、“碧波伞丸”。分别喻指武则天当了皇帝后，给自己四次加封尊号的历程，第一次为“大周皇帝”，第二次为“金轮圣神皇帝”，第三次为“越古金轮圣神皇帝”，第四次为“慈氏越古金轮圣神皇帝”。

在实际中，水席菜肴因宴请的规格进行调整，菜肴的构成和道数可能会有变化。

洛阳水席的起源

传说

相传，武则天曾去洛阳巡查，当地官员用“水席”招待。武则天平时吃惯了山珍海味，反而对荤素搭配、花样众多、清新可口的民间宴席十分喜爱。随行官员纷纷附和。原本在民间流传的水席，就走进了皇宫。每逢节日庆典，武则天都会用水席来赏赐大臣们，水席也因此从普通宴席变成了正式、高端的宴席。大臣纷纷效仿，官场上的宴请也多用水席。由于宫廷和官场的推崇，水席变得更为普及，制作技术、花样造型等也更为丰富。

地理因素

洛阳四⾯环⼭，地处盆地，降水相对较少，气候干燥。古时冬季天⽓寒冷，不产⽔果，因此百姓多喝汤水以补充水分、抵御寒冷。

洛河、伊河等河流交织其间，黄河穿流而过，因此洛阳盛产鱼、虾、蟹、蚌、山鸡、野兔、猴头、木耳、鹿茸、甲鱼、红果、银耳及各种药材，这些丰富的烹饪原料，为水席的形成和发展提供了得天独厚的自然条件。

社会因素

洛阳曾是十三朝古都，长期作为政治、经济、文化中心，人口汇集，带来了各地不同的饮食习惯和烹饪技巧。在饮食习俗方面，吸取了各地特色，形成了自己重实用、不重花样、健康清淡、有益身体的饮食文化特色。

从北魏到隋唐，洛阳地区佛教兴盛，寺庙僧尼众多。他们为了获得上流社会的支持，便潜心研制精美的素斋，用以款待有地位的施主。他们选用当地的特色食材，又结合民间饮食中喜欢喝汤的习惯，制成了连汤带水一起食用的菜肴，这就是最早的洛阳水席。这种烹制方法流传于权贵之间，经过改良，配上山珍海味，传入宫廷。

参考文献